I wanted to be able to control my fan and the fan light using Alexa. Currently, I had to turn on and off the fan with the switch and then change the speed with the chain. And the light was on a switch as well. Now, everything is on one switch, but I can use my voice to control both the light and fan as well. Now my fan has 4 speeds instead of 3 which is nice too.Setting it up was simple, just follow the directions and make sure you keep track of which wires you take off the old switches. They give you stickers to put on the wires so you don’t forget. The only real difference here is that you need a neutral (white) wire to give power to the switch as smart switches need power to operate unlike manual switches. So before you buy, make sure you have that neutral wire in the box or you will need to run one yourself or have an electrician do it for you. It is really not that hard and an electrician will not charge you that much if you don’t want to do it yourself. My house was built in 2003 and it has the nuteral wire. Some older houses might not.Also, make sure that you have the pull chain switch on the fan to top speed before you start. You will no longer use the pull chain to adjust the speed. You will do it with your voice or with the app on your phone. To avoid someone pulling the chain and putting the fan on a lower speed or turning it off by mistake, I removed most of the chain so nobody can pull it by mistake.It went in with no problems and the setup was pretty easy. The app picked up the lights in about 20 seconds and Alexa picked up both new switches right after. I have a lot of Treatlife stuff and it is my go to brand for smart switches. The have the right combination of quality, price and performance. So I look no further. If you have a lot of uses for this switch, they usually have a 4 pack available of any of their devices for a discounted price.So everything works great. I can now control the fan, the fan speed, the light and the brightness of the light from bed or any room in the house. If you use LED bulbs, make sure you get a dimmable ones. All LED bulbs are marked on the base either dimmable or not dimmable. Get a dimmable one to get a nice smooth transaction. The non dimmable will give you issues. The price of the bulbs is similar.Now when my wife walks out of the bedroom with the fan on full blast, I no longer have to get up and turn it off, I just tell Alexa to do it for me.

I have a number of Hunter fan/light wall controls in our home, which have generally worked well--so when it came time to add another fan as we finished our basement, I tried to get another. Unfortunately for them, they're out of them during COVID--and after waiting months for them to get new stock, I finally gave up and tried this model instead. And I'm very glad I did! My family loves being able to control the fan and light via our Alexa.However, all that praise comes AFTER I got past installation...When I was first ordering this control, I noticed that its Amazon page mentions multiple times (including directly in the item title!) "neutral wire required". Again, on the carton, boldly highlighted in yellow, "Neutral wire required....confirm whether there is a neutral wire inside the switchbox before opening the package." Again multiple times in the instruction manual--"neutral wire required". Am I misunderstanding something, or don't ALL fans and lights--and for that matter, ALL household circuits--use a neutral wire? That's an awful lot of emphasis for something that is standard.What ISN'T mentioned nearly as prominently is the fact that this control requires a SECOND LOAD wire between the control and the fan. MANY fans are wired with only one load wire--typically 14-2 wiring. (That is, one load wire-black, one neutral wire-white, and one ground wire-bare copper.) The light and fan are then controlled by pull chains at the fan. 14-2 wiring won't work with this control--you need 14-3 wiring, which has an additional load wire (typically red). THIS IS THE WARNING WHICH SHOULD BE EMPHASIZED FOR CUSTOMERS, NOT THE NEUTRAL WIRE.The next step is figuring out which wires are which--at both the switch, and at the fan. At the switch, the manual schematic shows that the yellow wire from the switch should be connected to a yellow wire from the wall, the red wire from the control should be connected to the red wire from the wall, and black to black, white to white, and green to green. It further states that "The wire colors indicated in this manual are the usual colors..." NOT TRUE! Most 14-3 wiring has a black wire, a red wire, a white wire, and a bare copper wire leading to the fan. (They don't use yellow because in certain fluorescent lighting, white and yellow can be hard to differentiate.) The power supply wire is typically 14-2--consisting of black, white, and bare. So the correct wiring is:--Black wire on control to the black wire in the 14-2 bundle in the wall--White wire on control to both white wires in the wall--Green wire on control to both bare copper wires in the wall--Red wire on control to the red wire* in the wall--Yellow wire on control to the black wire* in the 14-3 bundle in the wall* These two may need to be switched--it depends on how the wires are connected in your fanTreatLife really should update their wiring schematic to more clearly explain this wiring. Having done a number of fan and control installations, I can say that most other manufacturers explain this much better. Someone with electrical experience will have no problems--but without clearer instructions, many lay people will struggle.Once you get this done, the next fun step was getting the app installed and running. The controller only supports 2.4Ghz networks. My router is dual band--5Ghz/2.4Ghz, so it would seem there would be no problem there. However, my phone automatically chooses which one to be on--there's no way to force it to the other--and it was choosing to be 5Ghz. So I couldn't talk to the controller. Both the manual and the app provide instructions on how to get your router to be only 2.4Ghz, but my router couldn't use those instructions. After some internet research, I ended up walking down the street for about a block until I was far enough away that my phone lost the 5Ghz signal, and thus connected to 2.4Ghz. A hassle--but, hopefully, only a one-time hassle.Once you connect, and then go through the process to connect the controller to your Alexa, the Alexa actually finds TWO devices--one of which is named something like "DS03 Ceiling Fan Controller", and the other whose name is a series of Oriental characters. (I'm not familiar enough with languages of that part of the world to know if they're Mandarin, Japanese, or something else.) The controller actually treats the fan and the light as two separate devices--the device with the non-alpha name is the light. Once you realize that and rename it to what you want, the rest was quite easy. Although I will mention that if you look for assistance on either their website or their app, you do get to some pages which are a little hard to understand, as they were written by someone who clearly isn't a native English speaker. They made a valiant effort--but TechLife may want to invest in better translators and/or tech writers.So, with installation complete--both I and my family love this controller. The manual controls are easy, clear, and logical, and the Alexa controls work consistently well. A couple of the small chiclet buttons on the control feel like they may be a bit flimsy, so it'll be interesting to see how they hold up--but that may just be me adjusting to the latest in modern technology. :) I know I've probably dwelt a bit too much on the negatives in this review, so let me end by saying that it really is an impressive controller. I look forward to installing more of TechLife's products in my home--perhaps even replacing some of my beloved Hunter fan controls!

So, this was the 1st TreatLife switch I bought. I purchased it to replace a failing old Fan/Light Switch. I loved it. And, it looked so attractive, and was easy to use!Because it worked great, it convinced me to get TreatLife switches for all the other rooms in my home.And, ... this was where my nightmare began.(1) Their 3way switches are very poorly designed. And, I mean VERY poorly.(2) They are not UL or ETL certified, so many electricians will not touch them. And, due to design flaws, these switches may be hazardous in your home.(3) They have a high amount of leakage on the common line. (as in can damage other items on the same breaker high.)(4) They do not work with all bulbs.Now, they state lots of "gotchas" in their small print to get around the above. Like only 1 treatlife switch per breaker circuit (as if). And, will not work with Smart Bulbs (oh, and a whole long list of low wattage bulbs). That their 3ways are non-"standard" (as in they do not function to code). And so on.Sadly I spent 550$ in switches, and 1K plus trying to get electricians to help solve all the issues caused by these switches. In the end, I exceeded my return date while trying to get these switches to work. There customer service was "responsive", but not helpful. And, they strung me along until the return date was past, then they just disappeared.There are better alternatives out there (ie. like KASA switches both on Amazon and at Home Depot.)

During our renovations we bought a cheap Harbor Breeze ceiling fan from Lowes. It was wired by the contractor with pull chains on a single switch (yuck). I was skeptical this switch would be able to work with it -- especially the ability to dim the light/fan speed. However, I read a couple other reviews and I had neutral wires running into the switch box, so thought I would give it a go.It works like a charm. The instructions were well laid out, and the wire labels were really helpful while I was trying to figure out how to rewire the fan (to avoid the pull chains). I hooked it up to our google home (there is a smart speaker in that room) and now we can control light dimmer and fan speed with our voice. Pretty cool party trick!The google home setup was a little awkward (it shows up as two separate devices, and the name of the light switch defaulted to some Chinese characters) - but once I noticed the two new devices, I was able to control everything easily.Go for it.

Installation was same difficulty as all of these smart switches. Automated control is pretty straight forward but the manual control is very different than the old "analogue" switch that was there. This requires button combinations (you have to remember to double tap the mode) to set the switch to which mode your dimming/speed adjustments are going to affect (fan vs light). The old switch was just two simple sliders, one labelled "light" the other "fan". Not a big deal, but different.

My existing Fan/light combo unit had wall mount remote controller with single (14/2) L/N/G wire from wall switch to fan. There was a remote control unit in the fan canopy controlled by the wall switch to separately control fan/light. I removed the canopy remote unit and ran a second 14/2 cable from switch location to fan canopy. I then used this Smart Switch to separately control the Fan/Lights. The original 14/2: L (Black) carried Fan Load, N (White) was Fan Neutral. The new 14/2: L (Black) carried Lighting Load, N was unused.I set up the Smart Fan/Light Dimmer using Smart Life App and then configured in the Alexa App on my phone. I can now voice control separately via Alexa the Light On/Off and Light 10-100% and also Fan On/Off and Speed 1-4. Overall I'm really happy with my purchase and the unit works excellently and reliably.My light is LED bulb and has no flicker with this dimmer and excellent dimming range. I did go on to add 4 x LED Pot Lights connected to the same lighting load L (Black) wire in the canopy. So now the 4 x Pot Lights plus the Fan LED light all turn on/off & dim together. Original canopy bulb was one of those 75mm long halogen tube bulbs - I replaced it with an LED replacement bulb.As noted, I had a wall mount remote switch with canopy mounted remote unit. The above procedure would also work if you had a standard wall switch and a hand held remote controlling a canopy mounted unit. In both cases you definitely need a neutral present at the switch location as the feed side of the Smart Fan/Dimmer needs to receive L (Black) and N (White). Original canopy unit goes in the garbage when you're done.

I saw this item on a tech review video and thought it was a great idea. I ordered it immediately. Some people might think it's pricey, but because this smart switch controls two things - I think it's a justified price?The original wiring in my house was a little pesky (that's what happens when black wires are used for everything!), so it took a few attempts. After figuring the wiring and snapping everything into place - the light switch didn't work, but the fan switch turned on the fan and the light. I couldn't control them separately via the switch, app or Google Assistant Because it's summer (and I have no air-conditioning) I decided to live with it and use the pull chain for the light, since the fan is always on for the most part. I did like that I was able to control it from the phone, and set schedules/routines. However, hours later I discovered that something in the wiring in my light switch impacted the electricity in the stairwell and another bedroom. Not sure why it was wired like that, but that caused the cons to outweigh the pros.It is a quality product, but since my original wiring wasn't straightforward - I guess it just wasn't meant for me. Maybe if I knew more about how wiring works across multiple rooms and had more free time to troubleshoot it could've worked out. Thanks though!

I installed this a few days ago to control an older-model ceiling fan and light at my cottage. The installation went well and the switch connected to my wifi without any significant problems.I needed this wifi-controlled switch because I plan to turn on my electric fan heaters remotely to warm the cottage up before I arrive, which usually takes at least a few hours or even longer if it's cold. The fan is perched high in the vaulted ceiling and is necessary to mix the warm and cold air. The wifi thermostat for the forced air fan heaters (Sinope TH11124WF, reviewed separately on Amazon) also works quite well.I really like the app (called Treatlife). It's pretty slick; as good as I've used with my many wifi devices. In fact, I liked the app enough that when I went to replace another light switch, I bought a Treatlife product so I can use the same app. I now have over a dozen proprietary wifi apps, which can get to be cumbersome, so I'm starting to buy products from manufacturers that I know and like for both their products and their apps.It seemed a little expensive for what it is, but it works well so I'm satisfied.Regards, Mark