Wanted better solution for Dr Who TARDIS maker project than sanding white LED for top light.These lights are AWESOME for diffusion AND brightness, which is a rare combination. Needless to say, illumination through clear filament globe is PERFECT.Going to order a pack of blue if they have it.Bought a 100 pack of the blue, and they don't seem quite as bright or diffused at rate voltage. Still okay.Bought the multi colored pack and they were NOT so great.The Blues were a much lighter shade resin than the 100 count pack.The white was NOT diffused, and hence USELESS for my purposesNONE of the colors from the variety pack were particularly bright.If DIFFUSED WHITE is your desire, get this sellers 100count of them!!! TOTALLY AWESOMEOtherwise, I would not recommend / choose any other item they sell over the competition

Very bright LEDs for electronic use. Reasonably priced. Would buy again.

Most yellow LEDs are lower brightness than other colors. This LED is able to achieve a decent brightness at 20 mA and match my other colors.Unlike the photo which shows a yellow plastic encapsulation, these are clear diffused. Yellow color is amber.

Works perfectly with correct voltage. Just wanted to warn other science teachers that the green version will not turn on with simply a 3v watch battery. The batteries we bought only gave off about 2.7 volts which is not enough to power the green version. After reading spec more closely that is not enough to power this color led. We bought some Red and it worked very well. Red requires less voltage to power on

After having disappointing outcomes of getting diffused LEDs from eBay, I was quite relieved that these LEDs were in fact diffused LEDs.I got the 6 color LED set that comes with 20 LEDs of each color (white, blue, orange, yellow, red, green.) I intended to put them inside the painted acrylic balls for a birthday party. I was able to hook them up to a CR2032 battery without any problem and they light up fine.OPERATION VOLTAGE LEVELS OF LEDsThe LEDs of different color require different voltages. I love the fact that this product comes with a print-out of operational voltage range for each type of LEDs. Just in case someone didn't get it with their order, they are as following:White : 3.2V - 3.4VRed: 1.8V - 2.2VBlue : 2.8V - 3.0VYellow : 1.8V - 2.2VOrange : 1.9V - 2.1VGreen : 3.0V - 3.2 VFIGURING OUT IF YOU NEED RESISTOR OR NOTYou might or might not need a resistor with the LEDs. The resistor will prevent the LED from burning out if the battery being used is applying more voltage that the LED can handle. The CR2032 batteries that I have 3V output, so a resistor was needed to drop the voltage to the safe operating voltage.In order to determine if you need a resistor or not, you need to consider the operating voltage of the LED you plan to use and what voltage will be applied to the LED.If you are using Arduino then it operates at 5V, so you would need to add a resistor if it is directly connected to the input from Arduino. If you are using a single LED e.g White LED, its safe operating voltage is 3.2 - 3.4 V so you would need a resistor to drop the voltage down to 3.3V. The amount of resistance you would need can be determined by the formula V=I/R, or R = V/I. So if we want to drop the voltage in the circuit by 1.7V (5V - 3.3V) and the current is 200 mA then the resistor we need should be of 1.7/.02A = 80 ohm.Though if you are using LEDs in series then the voltages of LEDs add up. e.g. If you are using three Blue LEDs in series then they can be connected to a battery of 9V since when connected in series they will be able to withstand voltage between 8.4V - 9V.If you are using a processor that operates at 3V (e.g. nodeMCU) or using a battery that operates at 3V (e.g. CR2032) then you might need to add a resistor to LEDs that can withstand voltages less than 3V.MY LEDS ARE NOT WORKING, WHAT DO I DO NOWFirst make sure that the LEDs are connected correctly. LEDs will have two wires/electrodes. The long wire is the positive electrode (anode) and should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery. The shorter wire of LED is the negative electrode (cathode) and should be connected to the negative terminal of the battery. If these are not connected properly then not only the LED won't light-up, but it will block the flow of current to the rest of the circuit. Sometimes the LED wires are not cut properly and you might want to flip it around to see if that is the case.Also, make sure that the Voltage of battery is within the operating range of LED. Usually, if you are using a battery with lower voltage or if there are too many LEDs connected in series causing the total voltage of LEDs to go beyond the battery's voltage then also the LED(s) won't light-up.

Buy these if you want to be seen greenand wouldn't be caught dead red

Made a custom circuit board and put three in series / parallel X 11 for 10VDC feed rectified from 9VAC. Each LED drew 20ma at 3VDC with no current limit resistor needed.

works ok

These bulbs light up much brighter than I had expected. Do take note that they work (only work) when using batteries matching their described voltages. Voltages are clearly listed on the page on top, inside the case.I purchased them for mini electronics projects for kids and they are great for this purpose.

Great quality