I replaced a dead lead-acid UPS battery with this 12V 8Ah LiFePO4 battery and it fit perfectly. The UPS has been working flawlessly since the swap. While I haven't yet assessed its long-term durability, the cost is reasonable and the significantly lower weight is a definite plus.

I wanted to lighten my wife’s load with the scooter. This scooter comes apart for travel. These batteries solved the weight problem w other the battery box. I used 2 of these, almost exact measurements. Install was easy, charged with a lithium battery charger, paired well.I have put 9-10 miles so far, so far, so good.I am an amputee and the scooter lets me travel downtown or through a mall. I will share should there be a problem. I am pleased.Follow up - we have taken the scooter around town and to the mall, has held up well for 2-3 hour periods. Going well!

I extended my 12v car battery with this.Despite the comments not to do it, a battery balancer costs anywhere upward of $200.So I made my own for under $10.I may be wrong in some assumptions, and am still testing my setup, and will update in the future on more actual results.In the meantime, I theorize:My lead acid car battery charges at 14.4V (11A), and discharges at 12.65V (800CCA). This battery charges at 14.4V (4A), and discharges at 13.35V (8A, 20A burst).I connected this lithium battery in series to a 100W 3ohms resistor.Then I connected the lithium battery + resistor unit to the lead acid battery in parallel.After about 60 minutes of driving, the resistor was slightly warmed up, but still less than hand temperature, and the Li battery was cold to the touch, and both batteries balanced out.The resistor was added to lower the balancing currents between both batteries, and to protect the Li battery from over charge currents.From online:A lead acid battery has an internal resistance average of 20 mOhms.A lithium battery has an internal resistance average of 100 mOhms.Assuming this information is correct, and if my charging circuit provides 10A charging current (which is on the high side), the lithium battery without resistor should charge at approx 1.6A, while the lead acid should charge at 8.666A. So a resistor may not even be necessary for active (being charged) operation.More than likely the actual charge current is lower, as the charging circuit may only provide 5 to 6A of charge current,thus lowering the lithium charge current below the nominal.With added 3 ohms resistor, the 14.4 charge voltage drops to 13.75V, as a further protection against shorts, overcharges and over discharges.The main 2 reasons I have the resistor installed is:1- High current draw protection (eg: when the battery wants to start the engine, and a voltage sag happens).2- Battery balancing when charger circuit disconnects.Number 2 is the main reason, as the 14.4V charge voltage over the lead acid battery (13.75V on the Li battery side after resistor) disconnects, and the Lead acid battery drops to its nominal 12.50V, and the lithium to its 13.5V.That's a 1V differential between both, and with only 20mOhms on resistance, the current draw of the Lithium trying to charge the Lead acid would be about 50 amps (ignoring wiring resistances, probably closer to 25A in real life), well above the max the Li can handle.With the 3 Ohms resistor, the current draw from the Li to the Lead Acid should be closer to 0.333mA. A better suited 1Ohms resistor should allow for balancing currents of 1A.The resistor isn't the most efficient way to limit current, but considering that it was a very cheap solution, IMHO it was the best solution for an average Joe.The cons of this resistor setup, is that after shutting off the car, both batteries will self balance for a time, until the 13.50V voltage of the Li battery, matches the 12.50V of the Lead acid.Consider that the car also has parasitic losses, drawing energy from the lithium battery first; and all that balancing and parasitic losses all go through the resistor which basically converts roughly 1 to 3W in heat loss....The second con, is that when the starter motor is engaged, drawing up to 200A (400A peak); and the Lead acid voltage drops to 10V, the Li battery will be taxed heavily. It can provide a max of 20A for a duration of 3 seconds.If we presume that the LeadAcid has an internal resistance of 10mOhms, and the Li+3Ohms resistor is 3100mOhms, then about 200A/3110*3100= 199.35A goes to the Lead Acid, and about 0.64A goes to the Lithium (provided both batteries leveled out to 12.50V).If the engine is started immediately after it was shut down (start-stop system at a red light), the Li still has 13.5V, making the amp rating ~0.83AThe rest of the power gets drawn from the lead acid.For that reason, I believe a 1 or 0.5 ohm resistor may be more suited for regular cars allowing higher balancing, and higher starter discharge currents.In my case however, I own a hybrid car, and the starter only gets power from the 12V battery, if the high voltage battery is depleted.So it basically never draws power from the 12v.So the Li battery is merely there to extend the life of the 12V battery, and take care of the parasitic losses of the car (sensors, remote unlock, etc...).So far it also seems to work just fine.I'll update when something goes wrong or fails.

January 13, 2014: The product rating has been upgraded to four stars. The seller successfully resolved the defective battery issue, demonstrating commendable product support.January 9, 2025: Downgraded to one star. This is the third time I have purchased these batteries as SLA battery replacements for a UPS system. The UPS consistently displays an error code indicating a charging failure. Testing with an external charger yielded identical results. The UPS and external charger functionality has been verified using the original SLA batteries. Battery voltage testing reveals a reading of only two volts. Amazon has declined a return due to the lithium-ion battery type. I anticipate a response from the seller to facilitate a resolution and will update review if resolved..Upgraded to 4 stars. The vendor stands behind their product. Customer service is outstanding. They contacted us within 4 days and refunded the purchase cost of the batteries that were not performing to specifications.Purchased these in the past and of 12 two were NG. Purchases replacements and again two were of the NG. Guess it's a crap shoot with these batteries. Can't return because they are Li based batteries. Will not charge in APC UPS SMX1500. Uaed outboard charger and tested batteries after12 hours on charger. Meter shows max. charge 8.5v. Guess I will have to recyle them and I am out the funds.

I bit the bullet and tried these premium batteries for my portable Bluetooth speakers. Perfect exact fit for replacement. They're really light with plenty of power and duration of battery charge cycle. Definitely worth the extra money!

Bought it in November it’s now end of FEBRUARY IT WILL NOT CHARGE. NO PRODUCT SUPPORT!John Pickle

I ordered this battery to replace the one on my DuroMax XP10000EH generator. I was a little bit skeptical about it when I unpacked it because it was about 50% lighter than the original battery, but it worked perfectly. It is the exact same size as the original.My generator hadn’t been started for several years, so I had to crank it about 7-8 times before it finally started, and this battery held up fine.On a side note, Amazon offered overnight shipping for it and I had it on my doorstep in the wee morning hours the day after I placed the order. This was particularly beneficial because a storm was potentially coming and I needed it quickly.Time will tell as far as its longevity, but as of now I’m very pleased with it and highly recommend it.