Misses a 5 star rating due to obvious Quality Control Issue.Manufacturing: At close to $300.00 your should be paying for the best and you will get that if you manage to get a decent set from BBK. My set were fine other than an upside down grease zerk fitting which are pressed in (not threaded). I was able to remove and re-insert the zerk fitting right side up, but this is a production problem that QA should have caught easily (see pic). Weld and powder coating quality was exceptional on my set, however.Effectiveness: These parts deliver. An excellent design with solid if somewhat overbuilt box construction (not tubular). The welders at BBK know what they are doing (probably machine welded, but the compliment stays). These arms are so tough they will not flex in any dimension. These arms will solve the typical Mustang GT axle wind up, wind down problem from power on, power off. Well greased with PTFE lubricant, the polyurethane bushings will not squeak.Installation: Don't be fooled by the YouTube videos claiming 3-4 hrs start to finish for uppers and lowers. Total time for removal and installation is approximately 5-6 hrs just for the lowers. The forward control arm bolt head is inboard facing the mufflers. Removal of the exhaust makes removal of the bolt easy but time consuming. Rather than removal, prying on the muffler tract will allow access to the bolt head. Easier with two people for this step, one prying, one fishing the socket head and ratchet into the access hole. For 1999-2004 Mustang GTs, the sway bar mounts outboard of the control arm plates. The forward sway bar nut plates need to be reversed. The rear nut plates need to be deleted and substituted with nuts and bolts to mount the e-brake cable support plate. Bend the support plate's alignment tab up and out of the way of the control arm (see pic). The axle will move aft about 3/8" after removing the stock lower control arms so some prying is required to re-align the rear axle support to the lower control arm. Youtube is a good resource for understanding this part of the installation. The upper control arms aren't too bad but you will need the Maximum Motorsports MMT-1 bushing removal tool if you choose to R&R the factory bushings on the carrier assembly. The uppers are cramped & time consuming and you will utter a few swear words before completion. Recommend R&R of the lowers, than the uppers, but that could be reversed if desired. If you choose to also use BBK's 2546 Polyurethane Coil Spring Isolator Bushings, be advised these will raise the car's rear ride height about 1/4" due to isolator stiffness and thickness. I had to cut my Eibach springs 1/2 coil to compensate. Recommendation : Buy 2 sets from Summit Racing to ensure that you can get 4 good clean control arms. Send back the other "spare" set via Summit's pre-paid return shipping.

For the price and simplicity in their construction, one would think that the person pressing the steel bushings into the arms would get them right. The LCAs require long bushings. Well, I found a long bushing pressed into one of the UCAs and clearly it was too long by like 1/4" on each side. There are 6 bushings people... 4 are long and go into the lowers, 2 are short and go into the uppers. Cutting it down would be a simple answer, but the ID is larger, so thank you BBK for your robust quality assurance process. Now I have to run around locally, hoping to find a bushing.