Very competitive price as compared to local stores. The product quality seems to be decent given I used it for less than a month on the GE range stove. The power lines are extremely long so in my case I had to cut them shorter since I do not trust over-long lines due to overheating concerns. The cut was not that hard since I am a DIY person ( you had to remove the connector, cut the line and tip of the plastic wrap, and then put the connector back). The receptor to the coil is very easy to fit.

Installed on our GE stove and works perfectly, the cable is of high quality and there was more than enough length to install. Extremely easy to install (it does not matter which way round you install the terminals on the switch. Just make sure you unplug the stove before beginning the replacement process). If you're not too sure on how to replace the receptacle, there are plenty of YouTube videos explaining how.. I will ill be replacing the rest of the receptacle blocks for this price.

Pros:Nice socket. Good quality contacts. All hardware included. Good quality for the cost.Cons:Since is it generic, the wires are VERY long. MUCH longer than needed in my GE. Since they have factory connectors installed, I had to coil the wire several times in the back to use up the excess wire.

One of the burner sockets on my 39-year-old stove was making intermittent contact and needed to be replaced. This product was an exact replacement for the faulty socket, and is working great. It appears to be good quality, and the wire length should enable you to replace any of the front or back burners on your stove. The connectors on the wire push right on to the tabs on the burner controls, so there is not need to strip or splice any wires. Very happy with this purchase, especially at such a reasonable price.

Save money on repairs - fix it yourself!Does one or more of your heating burner/elements not heat up unless you jiggle it just right?If so, then you might want to consider replacing the receptacle, and maybe the burner too.Pull out the burner and look at the ends where they go into the receptacle. If they aren't nice and smooth, then you probably want to replace the burner too. (Especially if it looks rough and partly melted.) Burners are cheap - $10-$15 here on Amazon.OK, is it really as simple as using a screwdriver? Pretty much.Pull out the stove.++++ Unplug it from the wall. ++++ Optional: Clean 20 years of crumbs and forgotten toys...)Take off the burners and drip trays.Lift up the range and you can see the old receptacles.Note that the wires go toward the temperature knobs for each burner. (On your stove, this may be toward the back or toward the front.)Use the screwdriver to remove any access panel(s) so you can follow the wires.Put the screws in a bowl so you don't lose them.Now you can see where the wires have push-connects near the temperature knobs.Now that you've seen the whole project, you can start to replace the receptacles one at a time.See how the old receptacles are held on by a screw on the bracket?Unscrew the one you are going to replace.Now use the same screw to put the new bracket on. (You have new brackets, might as well use them.)Now look at the old receptacle hanging down.++++ Double check to make sure you unplugged the stove, and that none of the curious children has plugged it back in... ++++If you have wire cutters, or even kitchen scissors, you can cut the old wires away from the old receptacle.Pull/fish those wires out toward the knobs, but leave them connected at the knobs for now.Now look at the kit. The receptacle and the wires are separate when you get them, but the wires simply push into the back of the receptacle with a click. It might take a bit of force to push them in, but they will go in if they are aligned correctly.Snap the new, wired receptacle into the new bracket that you've installed on the stove.Put the new wires where the old ones went, following the same path.You want any extra wire to be behind the panel, not under your stovetop.Unplug the old wires and plug the new ones in where they were. (It doesn't matter which wire goes to which connector.) Optional: You can coil up the extra wire and use tape/rubber band/zip-tie to keep it neat. Tip: If this is the last receptacle replacement, you can spiral-wrap the wires around the rest of the wires to keep them neat. That way you won't be tempted to use zip ties or tape under your stove top.Re-assemble the access panels, drip trays etc... You'll probably have to spread the new bracket apart a bit to get the burner into the new receptacle, and use a bit more force than you are used to with the old set up. It's new and tight.Now you can plug the stove back in, and slide it back into place.Test it.Does it work? Of course it does!Congratulations! You just saved yourself $$$ you would have spent on an appliance repair man!

I purchased this item to fix my parent's range. The installation is straightforward, and it worked. After checking out local parts stores, I found it to be a little less by going to the local parts place. (you live and learn!) The item comes with no instructions, so I had to find a wiring diagram for the range to make sure all was well.

Used a couple of these to replace the burner receptacle blocks on my 12 year old Kenmore Range. The original Kenmore coil elements fit into these as do the Frigidaire Smart Choice burners sold here on Amazon. Never even bothered to check the Sears Parts Store on this item. After seeing how much cheaper the burners were than Sears I just assumed these receptacles were also much less. If you are at all handy, you will be able to switch out the old receptacle and replace it with this one. It will not be quick. You will have to remove the cover on the back control panel so, that means taking out the knobs and removing about 6-8 sheet metal screws for access to the tabs you must attach your terminals to. If you're a tyro to this sort of thing, just make sure you draw a simple diagram of what connects to what, label what screws go back into where and all you have to do is duplicate what was there when you began. Also, if you're a newbie to this, make sure your first step is to UNPLUG the cord (220V is very unforgiving). I only have one minor complaint about this kit. In an attempt to make this truly universal, they give you receptacle wires that are about 4 feet long. For most applications (like mine) that is over 2 feet too long. Unfortunately, the terminals of the wires are permanently crimped on. It would suit most purchasers purposes better if the terminals were included but loose . We, as consumers, could clip the wires to the required length, attach the terminals and snap them onto the tabs. The only reason this is an issue is that there's not a lot of space in the control panel and you will have to bundle the wire and make it fit somehow. Not a deal breaker... just a bit of a pain. If needed, I will definitely reorder.

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Works great, does what it's supposed to do. Ends are terminated as depicted in the photo.

Exact OEM replacement part. No splicing required. Direct fit and uses the factory connections without having to add unnecessary connections as with aftermarket. It does require a little more disassembly than the aftermarket but conforms to original engineered specifications and provides a safer and more problem free operation.

Being a former electro-mechanical tech, I figured out how to make this work. Normal, DIY homemakers, may have a little trouble. It is not an obvious, plug and play, direct ,swap out. So far it is working well and I have not smelt any plastic or bake lite burning. I noticed the element does not sit flat anymore. I do not know why.

Was exactly what I was looking for. As an electrician I will say the insulation on the wires are code with plenty of length. Was easy to install