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daniel calcano
August 31, 2025
These do fit over ARP head studs for anyone who might need to know that. They also include 3 bolt and circular TB gaskets, also some small o-ring which I have no idea what they are for. But they fit really well and are pretty heavy duty compared to the plastic OEM gasket. Haven’t run car to see if they leak but I don’t think they will
Customer
August 13, 2025
Great kit. Half the cost if bought locally. Includes the injector o rings.
Mark T
August 10, 2025
The original style gaskets have plastic tabs that snap onto the intake. These Fel Pro gaskets are metal and rubber, and they have tabs that hold them down onto the heads by going around the head bolts. You don’t have to remove the head bolts, they simply slide over the head of the bolt and stay securely in place while you set the intake down on them. It also has raised rubber pins that guide the intake into place. It really takes out any room for error. I’m using these on a supercharged motor, and I trust the metal gaskets more than the stock plastic gaskets. Performance is great, no leaks so far. Great deal compared to buying them from the parts store.
A.P
August 3, 2025
Was awesome and worked great it is good quality
Tahoe2002
July 30, 2025
Love the fit of these metal gaskets more than those OEM plastic ones. Do take note that they also include the Throttle Body Gasket as well for this item so you don't make the same mistake as I do of purchasing one separately.
MITD
July 21, 2025
I installed this set on my 5.3 with 119k on it and of course, the plenum port sealing surfaces were uneven/warped. This gasket set solved the problem without having to replace other wildly expensive parts.I liked the holding tabs that allow the gaskets to lay properly on the heads instead of the clips that hold the OEM gaskets to the plenum - I had no alignment issues and the job went smooth and quick.Do yourself a favor and don't waste your cash on inferior OEM style plastic gaskets.For you DIYers, the most difficult part of this job is removing the injector connectors WITHOUT breaking them.The trick is to use a pick with a hook - GENTLY pull up the locking tab on each connector (You'll feel a click) and then on the same side of the connector with the locking tab, slide the hook underneath the bottom of the connector between the skirt and injector and GENTLY pull up and away from the side of the injector - the connector will come off with out much fuss and... in one piece. :)I lost count of how many of these I've had in my bay with every connector needlessly and thoroughly murdered.Also -USE THE TORQUE SPECS/SEQUENCE FOR THE PLENUM BOLTS-
Ben
July 21, 2025
Had everything to seal up a gen 3 or gen 4 intake to include throttle body and injector O-rings. The tabs on the head side are a game changer, and these are probably reusable if in good condition.
Front Range
July 10, 2025
Very common problem with the GM truck engines, including my 2001 GMC Yukon XL SLT with 5.3l engine. Symptoms include very high idle on start, then low, loopy idle, check engine light (service engine soon light), hesitation on take off, etc. Codes might include MAF (manifold air flow) sensor, lean conditions and more.Normally one is supposed to chase the "hard" codes first before any other troubleshooting or work, but in this case, literally millions of GM's were put on the street with intake manifold gaskets that deteriorate over time. Fix this first! You will most likely see that is solves all other problems, like it did in my case. This is so common, one could buy a truck for cheap, spend a few hours fixing the intake manifold gaskets, and make a nice tidy profit reselling the vehicle.Total time for me to remove, clean up, and replace the intake gaskets was about 3 hours. Did it during the AFC championship game, easy job. Was able to use my Makita 1/4" impact driver for all but the back intake bolts, makes for a very easy dis-assembly.. Be sure to clean surfaces with a razor blade and some mineral spirits before re-asssembly. Also, have shop vac handy and use it liberally during the repair to ensure that no material goes down the intake ports of the heads.While you are under the intake manifold, don't forget to check the condition of the knock sensors and wiring and repair or replace if necessary. Earlier GM engines are prone to damage in this area because of water infiltration. Later engines, like mine, have foam dams in place front and rear that minimize water intrusion, mine were in great shape.If you haven't cleaned the throttle body or MAF sensor in a while, this is a good time to do it, be sure to use the correct spray cleaners to keep from damaging parts. Since you will be removing the throttle body, you will have access to the back side of the throttle body bore, making clean up a snap.I found several YouTube videos on this procedure that helped immensely, and make this procedure an easy Sunday afternoon, watch football and drink beer process. My engine has 241,000 miles and runs like a top. Good luck!
Just north of Kenora
July 5, 2025
2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 LTE Z71 212000 miles... I had a lean code on banks 1 and 2 on cold starts and a lumpy idle... several sites suggested it was a leaking intake manifold gasket...as you can see by the attached picture its likely the original gasket that was leaking...it was filthy with several obvious dirt tracks across the sealing surface... so this was my culprit. It took a lot of cleaning, vacuuming and scraping to get that crap out of there but when done it was glorious (wish I'd taken a picture). Anyway I had to dig the dirt and grease and sand off the bolt heads that the gasket slips over but when done the gaskets "snapped" into place. They are considerably more robust than the GM ones with lots of silicone. After reassembly and checking every fastener 3 or 4 times (I didn't want to go in there again). I was done. I cleared the codes and TADA perfect smooth start and no codes on cold start ... which btw is now -37c.I suggest strongly watching several DIY videos on YouTube.. I wouldn't have even tried without watching several. I'd rate it about a 6 out of 10 on the difficulty scale and a 8 on the testing your patience scale...
Customer
July 4, 2025
Fit on my 5.3 v8. This gasket doesn't mess around, it has thick rubber seals! Fixed the pirate air causing the performance problems, misfires, poor fuel mileage. Installed in a few hours. Did the job myself.
Greg S
June 27, 2025
2006 Silverado 6 L had to do knock sensors and changed the gaskets as well. Didn’t use the whole kit, but I have left overs for the next repair I guess
James
June 22, 2025
I know they are a little more than other intake gaskets but they fit and work amazing.
Kevin
June 21, 2025
Fixed the rough/ hunting idle and P0171, p0174, and p0300 on my 1999 Silverado 4.8. idles and runs smooth now. Great quality. I recommend these intake gaskets with the steel over the plastic
daniel calcano
June 15, 2025
These do fit over ARP head studs for anyone who might need to know that. They also include 3 bolt and circular TB gaskets, also some small o-ring which I have no idea what they are for. But they fit really well and are pretty heavy duty compared to the plastic OEM gasket. Haven’t run car to see if they leak but I don’t think they will
Customer
June 6, 2025
Great kit. Half the cost if bought locally. Includes the injector o rings.
Mark T
June 2, 2025
The original style gaskets have plastic tabs that snap onto the intake. These Fel Pro gaskets are metal and rubber, and they have tabs that hold them down onto the heads by going around the head bolts. You don’t have to remove the head bolts, they simply slide over the head of the bolt and stay securely in place while you set the intake down on them. It also has raised rubber pins that guide the intake into place. It really takes out any room for error. I’m using these on a supercharged motor, and I trust the metal gaskets more than the stock plastic gaskets. Performance is great, no leaks so far. Great deal compared to buying them from the parts store.
A.P
May 12, 2025
Was awesome and worked great it is good quality
Tahoe2002
April 23, 2025
Love the fit of these metal gaskets more than those OEM plastic ones. Do take note that they also include the Throttle Body Gasket as well for this item so you don't make the same mistake as I do of purchasing one separately.
MITD
April 2, 2025
I installed this set on my 5.3 with 119k on it and of course, the plenum port sealing surfaces were uneven/warped. This gasket set solved the problem without having to replace other wildly expensive parts.I liked the holding tabs that allow the gaskets to lay properly on the heads instead of the clips that hold the OEM gaskets to the plenum - I had no alignment issues and the job went smooth and quick.Do yourself a favor and don't waste your cash on inferior OEM style plastic gaskets.For you DIYers, the most difficult part of this job is removing the injector connectors WITHOUT breaking them.The trick is to use a pick with a hook - GENTLY pull up the locking tab on each connector (You'll feel a click) and then on the same side of the connector with the locking tab, slide the hook underneath the bottom of the connector between the skirt and injector and GENTLY pull up and away from the side of the injector - the connector will come off with out much fuss and... in one piece. :)I lost count of how many of these I've had in my bay with every connector needlessly and thoroughly murdered.Also -USE THE TORQUE SPECS/SEQUENCE FOR THE PLENUM BOLTS-
Ben
March 19, 2025
Had everything to seal up a gen 3 or gen 4 intake to include throttle body and injector O-rings. The tabs on the head side are a game changer, and these are probably reusable if in good condition.
Front Range
March 4, 2025
Very common problem with the GM truck engines, including my 2001 GMC Yukon XL SLT with 5.3l engine. Symptoms include very high idle on start, then low, loopy idle, check engine light (service engine soon light), hesitation on take off, etc. Codes might include MAF (manifold air flow) sensor, lean conditions and more.Normally one is supposed to chase the "hard" codes first before any other troubleshooting or work, but in this case, literally millions of GM's were put on the street with intake manifold gaskets that deteriorate over time. Fix this first! You will most likely see that is solves all other problems, like it did in my case. This is so common, one could buy a truck for cheap, spend a few hours fixing the intake manifold gaskets, and make a nice tidy profit reselling the vehicle.Total time for me to remove, clean up, and replace the intake gaskets was about 3 hours. Did it during the AFC championship game, easy job. Was able to use my Makita 1/4" impact driver for all but the back intake bolts, makes for a very easy dis-assembly.. Be sure to clean surfaces with a razor blade and some mineral spirits before re-asssembly. Also, have shop vac handy and use it liberally during the repair to ensure that no material goes down the intake ports of the heads.While you are under the intake manifold, don't forget to check the condition of the knock sensors and wiring and repair or replace if necessary. Earlier GM engines are prone to damage in this area because of water infiltration. Later engines, like mine, have foam dams in place front and rear that minimize water intrusion, mine were in great shape.If you haven't cleaned the throttle body or MAF sensor in a while, this is a good time to do it, be sure to use the correct spray cleaners to keep from damaging parts. Since you will be removing the throttle body, you will have access to the back side of the throttle body bore, making clean up a snap.I found several YouTube videos on this procedure that helped immensely, and make this procedure an easy Sunday afternoon, watch football and drink beer process. My engine has 241,000 miles and runs like a top. Good luck!
Just north of Kenora
March 3, 2025
2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 LTE Z71 212000 miles... I had a lean code on banks 1 and 2 on cold starts and a lumpy idle... several sites suggested it was a leaking intake manifold gasket...as you can see by the attached picture its likely the original gasket that was leaking...it was filthy with several obvious dirt tracks across the sealing surface... so this was my culprit. It took a lot of cleaning, vacuuming and scraping to get that crap out of there but when done it was glorious (wish I'd taken a picture). Anyway I had to dig the dirt and grease and sand off the bolt heads that the gasket slips over but when done the gaskets "snapped" into place. They are considerably more robust than the GM ones with lots of silicone. After reassembly and checking every fastener 3 or 4 times (I didn't want to go in there again). I was done. I cleared the codes and TADA perfect smooth start and no codes on cold start ... which btw is now -37c.I suggest strongly watching several DIY videos on YouTube.. I wouldn't have even tried without watching several. I'd rate it about a 6 out of 10 on the difficulty scale and a 8 on the testing your patience scale...
Customer
March 2, 2025
Fit on my 5.3 v8. This gasket doesn't mess around, it has thick rubber seals! Fixed the pirate air causing the performance problems, misfires, poor fuel mileage. Installed in a few hours. Did the job myself.
Greg S
February 11, 2025
2006 Silverado 6 L had to do knock sensors and changed the gaskets as well. Didn’t use the whole kit, but I have left overs for the next repair I guess
James
January 11, 2025
I know they are a little more than other intake gaskets but they fit and work amazing.
Kevin
January 10, 2025
Fixed the rough/ hunting idle and P0171, p0174, and p0300 on my 1999 Silverado 4.8. idles and runs smooth now. Great quality. I recommend these intake gaskets with the steel over the plastic
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