I have a Toyota tundra that was originally halogen lights. I bought LED bulbs and immediately my fog lights quit working and weird things were happening with the headlights. I googled it and found that these resistors would simulate the load of a halogen bulb and make the system think a regular bulb was in there instead of an LED. They worked perfect. I found a metal bar to mount them to and used some thermal paste to help dissipate the heat. These do get very hot, with the thermal paste and having them mounted on the metal bar it absorbs some of the heat. Don’t know how long they will last, but for now they work perfect. Having the exact connectors on the ends is nice because it means no splicing wires or cutting off connectors.

I bought this product after using a Bluetooth OBD adapter and OBD JScan did not fix my issue. Don’t get me wrong both products are still of good use to me, but with my luck it was not enough of a fix.I hit a deer awhile back and had to partially rebuild the front end of my 08 Grand Cherokee. When replacing the headlights, I opted for the SRT8 style headlights so I’d have projector low beams instead of reflector low beams. Reflectors aren’t bad, but projectors make much better use of the light sources output. The downside is halogens suck in most projectors. Companies can try as hard as they want, those relatively small halogen bulbs can only push out so much energy before their longevity falls off. LEDs work depending on how they’re designed in terms of diode placement. HIDs are ideal, but I didn’t like the idea of doing a harness conversion, at least for the time being. So I opted for the LED route as they made them in the 9006/9005 flavor.I came across what seemed to be a nice combo set by Fahren for $35-40ish. I took my bets on it and I ended up being gladly surprised. Nice modern 6000k color temp, bright as s*** and the ring on them were already turned for the optimal beam pattern, even in the projectors. But I did have a problem and I kinda went into it knowing that the Jeep may reject the LEDs in some way because of it being in the era where vehicles started relying more and more on CANBUS to communicate all it’s different functions in all different directions.The problem was that when the bulbs were powered on, the fans were super loud, kinda like the old XB360/PS3 fans that sounded like a jet about to take off. And when they would get powered off, they would stay illuminated very dimly and flicker until the Jeeps accessory circuit had shut off for so many seconds and then they would fully power off. Mind you, the ‘DRL on ECU’ was disabled so the DRL had no effect on the problem. With the low beams, it wasn’t that bad but I ended up keeping the halogens in the high beams because if I used my brights, they would do that flickering crap and I know darn well someone or a cop is gonna be upset at that when I’m driving and kill my brights but stay and flicker.That brings me to using JScan and buying the adapter. By enabling the High Intensity Discharge Lamp option and Quad Headlamps, that would solve the problem; however, the HID option was already active from factory (despite not having the D1S/9005 SRT8 headlight setup from factory) and upon enabling the Quad Headlamps, only the right low beam would even work and still flicker when powered off. Deactivating both options made both work again and the fans were self regulating their speed instead of running only wide open. So I left the settings as is and then invested in a set of these for the low beams. Plugged them in, turned them on and everything was normal, the light output didn’t drop any and upon powering them off, within two- or three-tenths of a second, they shut off completely. Not instantaneous, but still faster than a halogen can go from full intensity to fade to off. And it stopped them from flickering at all. So last night I ordered a second set for the high beams. Once I receive them Monday, I will install the led high beams again and then I should be rocking and rolling.The only downside is that they do get really hot while in operation. That’s how they’re designed to work, basically acting as a dummy load to closer match the LEDs amperage draw to that of a halogen. Remember, LEDs only emit like 1/3 the amount of heat that a halogen bulb of similar wattage emits. Halogens rely on heat to produce light, requiring more energy; LEDs are diodes that generally only get hot if they’re being driven to their limit, mainly why most led headlights have a fan to compensate for the power they’re cranking out of the chips. In my case that has no effect on me, but for those that have vehicles that tell you what bulb is out or gives a general bulb outage alert, that should fix that problem when converting to led from halogen. But it seems to me like it has some sort of capacitor inside it that drains any residual charge in the circuit, which I believe to be the problem I was having. The bulbs had a built-in error decoder but it must not of had a capacitor to keep that from happening.Overall, it seems to be a well worthy purchase. It’s an affordable price and so far has held up fine and hasn’t melted anything and caused a fire. I bumped my hand against it while I was adjusting my right headlight after I hit another deer last week (I was doing 35 in a 35 this time, instead of 55 in a 55 like last time so damage wasn’t near as bad) and I didn’t even feel the heat for a few seconds. Definitely hot but not scalding. I think the LEDs were rated at 65w supposedly and these have 50w printed on them so maybe that’s why mine ain’t getting so hot, really couldn’t tell ya for sure. Or maybe they just dissipate the heat fast in the moisture dense air us Western Kentuckians have been dealing with a lot lately.But yeah, either way, if everything is telling you this is what you need for your led conversion, most likely this is the option for you. Just make sure you select for the right harness/bulb type.

PROS: The product works.CONS:1) The bulb was very difficult to put in. I had to use the other end of the harness to "break in" the bulb socket on this harness before I could get the build to go in. Seems like the plastic is so rigid that you almost break your LED bulb trying to put it in the bulb socket of this harness.2) The wires are WAYYYY to short to mount the heatsinks where they need to be. There is a warning(that comes with all resistors) to not mount then on our near plastic, because they get extremely HOT. Because the wires are so short it makes it almost impossible for the average "diy'er" or even a more experienced person to mount then properly. I'm a certified professional installer and I found these wires ridiculously short. You shouldn't have to remove a light assembly completely to mount the heatsinks or modify the short wiring (which will void any type of product warranty) to make this install work.Unless you really know what you are doing, I don't recommend these harnesses for you.To the manufacturer. If you read this review. Add 2 to 3 more inches of wire. It won't break your company. He[[, charge a dollar more for the product. It would be worth it to help you target audience have an easier install and reward you with better reviews.

I have a 1966 Dodge Polara that I converted to have LED headlights. I was having problems with the lights as the low beams didn't seem to be getting enough consistent power despite my using high quality relays. I bought these resistors as a shot in the dark and they appear to be working. If anything changes I'll adjust the review.You need to mount the resistors on something metal in the engine compartment as they get very hot.They do not come with any mounting screws so I'm taking off a star. I had to get some #6 x 1/2" stainless sheet metal screws from Home Depot.Update: I did an LED conversion for my other antique, a 1975 BMW and had similar issues with low beams not working so I bought another set of these resistors and they did the job. Changing my review to 5 stars despite them not coming with mounting hardware because they work well.

It works great. It fixed the issue I was having. I installed them on my 04 Subaru Forester. The length of the cables were perfect. The only complaint I have is that the clips inside the female end of the plug had a little bit of play to them. This made it difficult to plug in the bulb. But not impossible. With a little help from a small flathead I was able to work them in. Other than the theme are perfect. When I installed the LED headlight bulbs, as long as I had my dog lights on, my headlights stayed on bright mode and would not dim. When I turned the fog lights off they worked perfectly. After a little research I read that I needed resistors. These were the same price as others, but come ready to go. Literally plug and play. Once mounted to the fender side wall all that I had to do was plug them in. You can see in the pictures on the side with the battery I had to put them a little higher. But they fixed the issue at hand. Now my lights work exactly as they should, but with the quality and brightness of LED.

Worked great to fix the on and off problem.

Sortie de l’emballage les contact ne se font pas correctement soudures des fils mal fait juste bon a jeter a la poubelle

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