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F. Tapia
2025-09-04 20:08:37
Great Product for a great Price
Sneeknasty
2025-08-24 13:30:00
Perfect fit
THEODORE CHEATHAM
2025-08-16 12:55:40
Tools needed : 1/2 inch drive, 1/2 inch drive extension that is 5 inches, and a 3/4 inch deep well socket. Take you time is number one in removing the old coolant sensor. Get an old pan or bucket that will fit under your car because a small amount of coolant will come out. There is no need to drain fluid from the radiator. Take the clip off of the sensor. Screw the old sensor out counter clockwise with the above tools. If the sensor has not been changed in awhile then get some WD 40 or spray lubricant and spray on the threads like I had to do as the old sensor was a little difficult to come off. Once off, take the new sensor and hand tighten and then use the above tools to tighten but not too tight. Have the coolant sensor snug and do not over tighten. Put the clip back on the sensor and put a little bit more Motorcraft coolant in the coolant reservoir as you did lose a little. Start your car and use a flashlight to check for leaks. Go for a test drive and get your inside car temperature gauge up to halfway where it should be between cold and hot. Let your car idle for a few minutes more and check for leaks to finish the job. This will be a 30-45 minute job and maybe less if the coolant sensor comes right off. Remember to take your time taking the sensor out and putting a new one back in. You do not want to strip the threads.
Customer
2025-07-31 17:52:51
I used this sensor to replace the temperature switch on my 2000 Explorer. It’s a direct fit, and replaces the sensor on the driver’s side of the thermostat housing. It doesn’t thread in all the way on my vehicle, just like the oem sensor, but it’s secure and doesn’t leak. It’s been installed for a few months now and works fine. This is the sensor that controls the temperature gauge on the dash.
Waiting4themoment
2025-07-05 21:21:27
Worked ok.
H Shanon Anderson
2025-06-26 10:57:16
This is NOT a DY1144 !!! This stamped as a F903A, aka: 3F1A-12A648-AB, for a 1 wire SENDER.This mislabeled part will throw codes. The real Motorcraft DY1144 is an interchange part number for 3F1Z-12A648-A, 5TE9176AA, DY961, F5AF12A648AB, and F5AZ12A648AB, and is the SENSOR that has a V cone on the end and is for 2 wires. There is a BIG difference between a "SENDER" with a stub head, and a "SENSOR" with a Vcone head.
Fred
2025-06-12 14:35:55
1996 F150 with 351 V8 .. problem was: the truck started just fine when cold. After starting idle surging and while driving idle seemed high. When the engine was at normal temp if it was shut down it would take alot of cranking to finally start. Acted like it was flooded .. when it did start, exhaust smelled heavy of gas. Since the computer (ECU) uses engine temp to control fuel delivery, I took a guess that computer was not getting the correct temp signal. I order this sensor and replaced the old one ... Problem was fixed, what a difference .. must have been failing over time. Sensor is located under the throttle body, pointed foward with a two wire connector. Takes about half an hour to change. Just passing this on for the older F150 owners out there. : )
Paulina Tran
2025-04-26 18:56:51
The old switch hump slider is off center.Your switch has a center hump slider.Look at the pictures to understand what I'm saying.
Cournoyer
2025-04-16 10:48:45
Rien à dire, plug identique à celle d'origine, fonctionne comme le devrait. (Moteur stock pas modifié)
David
2025-04-01 15:14:33
Just want I needed.
Customer
2025-02-20 11:54:07
Exact fit
Richard White
2025-02-19 18:05:04
No problems installing
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