Scytek A15 Keyless Entry Car Alarm Security System, 2 Key Fob Remote Controls

I was a car audio installer for 19 years, 9 of those years owning my own company. I've been out of the game for awhile, but needed to put door lock actuators and an alarm in my daughters Jeep Wrangler. When I initially came across this alarm, I just skipped on past it, because at the low price it was listed, I figured it had to be junk. I came back around to it and decided to give it a shot. Worst case I was out very little $. I am sure glad I did. This thing has features on it that used to cost DEALERS double the money to get. A few highlights:- Priority unlocking (Drivers door on first press, other doors on second)- 2 car operation from one remote- Dual zone shock sensor built into alarm brain- Dome light supervision (Turn on the dome light for 30 seconds on disarming)- Coded valet override switch- 2 AUX outputs- On board parking light relay- upgrade to add other features with additional modulesThere's more, but these are probably the most useful. Don't be afraid of this alarm because of the price. It is well built, feature packed, has sleek thin easy to use remotes, and works incredibly well.

Bought this a couple years ago for my vintage mini truck. Sleep well at night knowing the door are locked and the alarm will sound if opened. Has been very simple to install and maintain. The remotes have been flawless

I took me about 2 weeks to figure out i needed to add a 12v line with a 10ohm resistor to the door switch that was triggering the alarm. The computer was sending a 12v pulse to the door locks that was triggering the alarm. Now it works perfect !! Any one know where i can get a waterproof remote for this ?

I installed this on a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4 years ago. It worked well and I did not have issues with it for a year or two. I started to notice that when it would be hot outside (typically above 90F) the vehicle would not unlock via the fob. This would result in having to unlock the door with the key, which would set off the alarm. I would then frantically try to disable the alarm by following the procedure outlined in the manual (which worked most of the time). I believe the problem is that the antenna is not receiving the signal from the fob. I have changed the batteries and used a different fob with the same result. The only thing I can determine is there is something wrong with the antenna circuit. Once I reset it by starting the vehicle and turning it off, it seems to work again.

Its a working car alarm. I had to change the wires for the locking feature to the alarm and disarm wires to get it to function correctly. My cars locks are 200ma the alarm is 500ma. Its not very sensitive and it has no adjustments so you will likely have to buy an extra sensor to get the alarm you want which is an additional $25. So keep that in mind. If its your daily, get a better alarm for the fob alone if its a car you don't drive often and needs door unlocking, this is a decent choice.

It was very simple to install this unit

One of remotes stop working.

UPDATE:1) The alarm would randomly spit out an 11-flashes code, usually after sitting (armed) for a few hours. This is almost guaranteed when armed overnight. There is no documentation for 11-flashes; the manual only goes up to 9-flashes.2) The flashing parking lights suddenly stopped working, then 2 days later the flashing parking lights started working again.I sent a message through the Scytek website - NO RESPONSE, 2 weeks and counting.I tried to call the phone numbers listed on the Scytek website - automated message "the person at extension (insert random 3 digits) is not available, please leave a message."Great customer service, Scytek!I'm yanking this crap and throwing it in the trash.I'll be taking my chances with an Avital 3100L, which is priced in the ballpark.I wanted to give Scytek a chance since they like to print "Built in the USA" all over their products, but if it's made with crappy components (from China), it's still crap.Then add this crappy customer service...forget it.ORIGINAL REVIEW:For the price point, it's very hard not to go wrong with this purchase.When comparing options, it came down to this or the competing Avital (Directed Electronics) model 3100L / 3100LX.I have never been a very big fan of Viper due to the 6-tone siren, so I went with the Scytek.I like the fact that Scytek is a "USA company."I haven't been up-to-date on car security for years, so I was surprised that the industry is now dominated by Directed Electronics (Viper, Avital, Python, etc.) and Compustar.I was just looking to install a basic car security system for a commuter vehicle, so I didn't need anything fancy.I've been dealing with car security products since the 90's, so I wasn't going into this as a beginner.My last preference of brand for car security had been Alpine, but their last line of car alarms has been about 20 years ago.It seems like car security tech hasn't changed much, and if anything it has gotten downright cheap.Directed Electronics dual-zone shock sensor seems to be the standard for analog system. and these go for about US$15 - US$20.This Scytek A15 full system with two remotes is was under US$50.My last serious car alarm system was an Alpine SEC-150R which is priced around US$200 - US$300, uninstalled!The Alpine SEC-150R was fully loaded with a dual-zone shock sensor and dual-zone radar sensor, but you get the idea how cheap these systems have come down over the years.Most of your custom programming can be done with the remote, EXCEPT for the light flash option of positive (default) or negative trigger - this is changed via a physical jumper on the circuit board, which you can access by removing the plastic cover for the brain.Since this alarm system uses old, analog tech, your triggers, inputs, outputs are strictly ground or +12VDC.I ran into a lot of headaches installing this into my 2004 Toyota, as modern cars now use lower voltage pulsed signals due to use of multiplexers or (body control) modules - think CAN-BUS.Be prepared to use a lot of relays.The dual-zone shock sensor is built into the brain, so this might or might not be a problem for you.The brain case is slightly thicker than a deck of cards.Wiring harness are about 2' - 3' with pigtail ends, with the LED and valet switch harnesses slightly shorter.Be prepared to extend wires if needed; if you install the brain centrally under the dash, you should be able to splice all your wires with the included harnesses with very little problems.I have my brain zip-tied to the metal cross bar behind the dash, LED in the center console, and most connections to the body control module / door lock wiring in the passenger kickpanel behind and around the glove box without extending any of the wiring.For under US$50, this was a great price for a basic alarm to protect my ride.