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WR51X10055 this part can melt ice and frost around the coil to keep food better.
Replaces Part Numbers: WR51X10030, AP3183311, PS303781, 914088, AH303781, EA303781, PS303781, WR51X10030.
WR50X10068 this part would shut off and cut off the defrost's electricity when the temperature reached a degree.
Defrigerator defrost thermostat:Replaces part numbers: PS1017716, 1170024, AP3884317, WR50X10015, WR50X10017, WR50X10018, WR50X10028, WR50X10051, WR50X10052, WR50X10053, WR50X10054
WR55X10025 defrigerator temperature sensor replaces part numbers: 914093, AP3185407, WR50X10027, WR50X10034, WR50X10067, WR55X10025, WR55X10026, WR55X10027
WR55X10025 the aim of sensor is to send the present temperature reading towards the control board.
Sergio harbrink
2025-09-05 18:21:37
The media could not be loaded.
Gilbert Stroud
2025-08-08 15:51:04
Everything bolted up and wired up just as the OEM , good quality and works perfectly, fixed my problem
STEPHANIE ROGERS
2025-06-30 15:07:10
Fast shipping and easy to put in. Fridge is fixed😊
Buyer
2025-06-28 11:58:29
I purchased this defroster kit to fix my GE Profile refrigerator (Model PS123SGPA BS) icing (i.e., frost accumulation) problem. The issue I had was that the freezer section of my side-by-side refrigerator would no longer properly defrost. See the picture of the accumulated ice on the freezer coils. Thus, the temperature would go out of control in the freezer and refrigerator sections of the refrigerator. The kit contained the three major components that would most likely fix my defrost problem; the following components: a refrigerator defrost heater WR51X10055, a temperature sensor WR55X10025, and a defrost thermostat WR50X10068. Initially, I replaced only the defrost heater with the heater contained in the kit and tested the refrigerator. The icing problem persisted. Next, I replaced the temperature sensor and the defrost thermostat with the components contained in the kit. This fixed the icing (i.e., frost accumulation) problem. But now I had a problem with the ice in the ice maker melting and clumping together. For some reason, the defrost cycle was running too long, and the ice in the automatic ice maker would melt and then freeze together.Before purchasing additional components (e.g., a new control board), I conducted continuity tests on the newly installed components from the kit. I discovered that the kit's temperature sensor (WR55X10025) was out of spec. The temperature sensor should measure approximately 5K ohms at room temperature, but it was measuring around 14K ohms at room temperature. I purchased a replacement temperature sensor (same part number, i.e., WR55X10025). I installed this sensor, and my ice-clumping problem was resolved. I recommend measuring/testing all components before installing them into your application.
chris richardson
2025-06-14 13:10:19
Replaced the OEM unit with this one. Also replaced the board and the evap fan as part of trying to stop the ice from melting during defrost and refreezing. We had also experienced periods when the unit stopped cooling and had to be reset (the board was bad). The OEM defrost was not bad, but I thought I would replace it as part of the repairs. After all the parts were replaced the unit ran great, for a few days. Then the ice started to melt even worse than before. After research I determined that the thermister was most likely bad so I ordered two supposedly OEM parts to replace both of the parts in the freezer. I was VERY surprised when I opened the panel to find the defrost element along with the wires and parts of the inner wall melted! Obviously this this thing had been way too hot (hence the melting ice). (note: during the troubleshooting of the issue, I had tested the overlimit thermostat and it broke the circuit at approx 180' which was actually lower than the OEM part I pulled out. Specs call for 140') I tested the upper thermister and found it was bad (read 12k ohms at room temp, the new ones were 5.86k ohms). This one controls the defrost temp. It would appear that the thermister that came with this kit had failed or was bad originally. (I did not test it before installation) Fortunately I still had the OEM defrost heater and replaced the bad connectors then put the original defrost back in (after I tested it) along with the new thermisters. Twenty four hours later we still have frozen, loose ice. Time will tell if I got it fixed. The root of our problem was actually a bad evap fan motor which caused the board to go bad. I just wanted to replace all the other parts as long as I was in there. I should maybe have just left them alone. Another lesson learned, always test "new" parts before installation. I left the replacement upper limit thermostat in. Hopefully it does not fail soon.
JTK
2025-05-25 12:38:07
I replaced this on 7/21 and again on 1/23. The first was a bad defrost thermostat. The second was a bad connection at the heater...more of a bad connector from GE, but replacing it seems good to go. Glass tube heaters are not always the best in longevity, but you go with what was designed. The kit is cheap enough to buy a back up if needed...I mean when needed. This is one of the highest failures of most modern fridges and the easiest to fix.
Ricardo Santos
2025-05-21 11:53:40
Meet the expectations.
Gor
2025-05-10 17:05:28
This kit comes with the defrost heater, a defrost thermistor (the small diameter white cylinder), and a safety thermostat (the short wider metal cylinder).I removed the entire wiring assembly from the freezer compartment so I could test each part individually. My safety thermostat was OK so I reused the existing part. I tested both existing and new safety thermostats at the same time in hot water, and they both opened around the same temperature.HOWEVER - the thermistor is out of spec. The existing thermistor read around 6000 ohms when at room temperature and around 14000 ohms when in ice water. The thermistor which came with this kit read around 11000 ohms at room temperature and 26000+ ohms when in ice water, so I kept the existing thermistor part also.This seemed like a wise decision, and I guess it was the right one since I am reading reviews where people replaced their original thermistor with the thermistor in the kit, and it causes the heater to run longer than normal, melting a re-freezing the ice cubes.Overall, the replacement was simple, and I'm almost a month into the new one, so I can't comment on longevity.
Northernmage
2025-04-29 13:41:17
I installed the defroster element first to see if I needed to replace the sensors. It looks like the sensors are still good and the defroster element solved the problem. The job took about 45 minutes since I wanted to defrost the coils first.
Kerry
2025-03-09 10:41:11
Seems like this part goes every two years or so. Hopefully the new design will last a bit longer. Still cheaper than a new fridge.
kingpin
2024-12-16 16:04:05
got it fast, fixed it right away
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