I have had several brands before, and this one takes the cake, hands down. It measures much more slight power draw (1/100 w precision though I haven't tested a minimum), and displays so much on its clear screen or in the app. Plus it's not emphasized much in the description that it is also a wifi switch! Yes, it has an on/off button on both the device and in the app. It does everything but make coffee. And it can be made to do that. It takes about .5w with the switch (relay) off and 1w with it on, so a bit more than a standard wifi plug, but not much. Display brightness seems to have a minor effect on the power draw. It has several different display screens, all of them providing lots of information. It works without wifi, too, as all settings and features seem to be available on the display. Oh, and it uses the popular Tuya / Smart Life app. It does require about 10 secons to boot up.

I have Kill-a-Watts, and they work just fine with the caveat that they don’t have a smart feature. I was looking for something I could track my wall A/C energy usage with. A huge plus, this unit is not only smart, using the Smart Life app, but it’s also rated for 265v 50/60, and 16a. My A/C unit requires 250v. I just needed to get a 6-15p to 5-15r adapter to go between the wall and this unit. Then get a 5-15p to 6-15r (I got the Plugrand 4-in-1) adapter to plug the A/C into this. It works perfectly!As others have said, the manual lacks a lot. The E_Test app they suggest is meh. Get yourself the Smart Life app, connect to this unit, and you’ll be golden.

Very bright and clear display! Use of the wi-fi feature requires registration of household wi-fi password. I suppose I should have known. The manual is four small pages of ~4 point type, written in Chinglish and an alternate four pages of straight Chinese.The unit offers three broad functions: 1) Basic one-outlet power monitor which works very well. 2) Remote "smart switch" via wifi & extra app which is functional. 3) Remote power analysis and control via app which is poor. Limited wifi range. Offers programmable over-voltage and over-current protection.Outside Tuya app does sync with this unit, but there is NO manual. Graphing function only reads in ONE HOUR intervals!

Was unable to ever get this to hook to my phone. Setup is a pain. Manual is a huge joke, has nothing to help setup up will take you to chaina website for download of information. No help with that no help on apps. Will not load app as intended.. returning. Will look for better one that's only blue tooth. No WiFi in the area as used.

So much better than a Kill-A-Watt unit.1) Everything you want to see on one screen (Volts, Amps, Power, Energy, PowerFactor) in large, bright different colored font you can read from 10 feet away. Kill-A-Watt only has one value on the screen, so you have to press buttons constantly, and, you have to be a couple feet away and look at right angle to read it.2) Energy reading (kWh) is retained in memory when power is lost. Kill-A-Watt, power loss = reset of kWh meter. I use this type of device sometimes for checking large LiFePO4 lithium batteries/Inverter real end capacity (after inverter losses). When the battery is depleted, inverter output power is shutoff, and you lose your accumulated Energy with the Kill-o-Watt unit. (Kill-A-Watt useless for this use).3) Sometimes your plug-in meter is in an inaccessible location (like behind refrigerator). The phone app is fantastic to get your readings.*************Now I do have a few complaints. None are show-stoppers, and this unit is still seems to be the best bet in town. Here are the issues:*********************************3) An Energy Meter (kWh) alone is rather worthless (except for checking battery>inverter capacity). Most people are interested in the average power consumed by a device (like a refrigerator). Or they are interested in the amount of energy used over a specific period (like a calendar month in typical billing cycleWhen you reset the Energy meter (kWh) on a Kill-A-Watt to zero, it also resets an elapsed time meter to zero. You can view both the accumulated kWh, AND the elapsed time for that accumulated Energy.If you want average power consumed on a Kill-A-Watt meter, you have both the total energy consumed in kWh, AND YOU HAVE A TIME ELAPSED METER.Avg Power = kWh (Energy) / elapsed timeAgain, my complaint with the Kill-A-Watt meter is that even a 1 second power outage resets the kWh meter and the elapsed time meter.But THIS ATORCH meter does not even have an Elapsed time meter. It simply has the current internet time. Useless.You are forced to start a stopwatch on your phone when you reset this meter's accumulated kWh Energy. Then when you read the the kWh reading on this meter, you need to look at the elapsed time on your phone. And for longer runs, you better make sure that your phone does not run out of power, or, you had to reboot due to flakey software and lose your elapsed time.So the Kill-A-Watt is still the best meter for really evaluating ongoing power consumption on a device that either has variable power use, or, has on/off type operation. Not good for retention with minor power loss.This ATORCH meter is good for retention of accumulated energy with power loss (like testing battery/inverter) but very painful for making any sense of that accumulated Energy (kWh).And both meters suck in that they do NOT provide a calculated average power over an elapsed time period from the reset of the kWh reading.For the Kill-A-Watt meter, you have to convert hours:minutes to a fractional hour number to make your calculation on (phone) calculator to get average power.Worse, for this ATORCH unit, you not only have to make the same calculation to get average power over a period as above, but you had to start an elapsed time meter of your own (like on your phone).It would be so easy to add two more variables to display on this ATORCH meter:Elapsed time (like the Kill-o-Watt has)Avg Power (kWh / Time)Far more important than utility line frequency and Power factor if you do not want to create another display page in that unit.****************************4) The Wifi setup and the phone apps are a great addition, and a huge improvement over the Kill-o-Watt. However, neither the Tuya app nor the Smart Home app on my Android phone matched to this unit work properly.Only the Voltage, Current, and Power seem to be updating on my Android phone. The Energy and a few other values are frozen and do not update. Disappointing, but not a show-stopper for me. Both Android apps appear identical.I haven't figured out how the graphing works, but it appears to be rather useless in current form, and there is no explanation given for how averaging works over uncertain periods. I will update this review when I can spend some time.***************************5) My net issue is related to the safety of this unit in applications where you will use this as a semi-permanent application (as opposed to just using it for temporary testing).Clearly, this ATORCH unit was primarily designed for the non-USA market where the voltage standard is 230VAC. Using it in the US market for 120V operation simply requires a change of the inlet/outlet connectors. It is that easy..... supposedly.Here is the problem. An appliance/device in Europe will use half of the current as a similar device in the USA. Power = Volts x Current. Twice the voltage, half the current to do the same amount of work.The standard residential outlet in the USA is the 120Vac, 15 amp outlet with a 15 amp breaker in the main panel in your home.240Vac volt outlet has a special connector, usually one in your home for an electric dryer and maybe in your garage for a Tesla).In most of Europe, residential homes, 230VAC, with outlets designed for 10A with 10A breakers (13 amp in UK).Now a plug-in meter device is pretty simple. A manufacturer cannot mess up the design of the male plug into wall, and the female plug for your corded device. It is designed in the USA for 15A and 10A in Europe. And the meter itself does not need to break those connections. They simply need enough copper connecting two or three straight thru inlet to outlet plug conductors. I would not be worried about a straight through connection for a normal meter.Now when you add a manual switch or relay, it is a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT STORY.Current carrying capacity is a big cost and size factor in making a plug in device with a manual or relay switch.It is all about limiting the heat produced in the conductors, and that heat increases with the square of current. At 10A, the heat rise in that manual switch or relay will be within an acceptable amount to not melt the surrounding plastic. If you put 16A through that device (an increase in current of 60%), the temperature rise in the device will go up by 260% (2.6 times higher temperature rise). A really big deal.The ATORCH meter here on Amazon lists the specs for the unit. For current, it is limited by the relay. It is a 10 amp relay.Now they say here on the Amazon page Relay: 10A, 16A max.WTF does that mean? If that relay can handle 16 amps continuous, it would be a 16 amp relay.It can only 16A intermittently. Like a short time. Maybe enough to boil a kettle of water. The temperature rise is not instantaneous at that higher current level. It takes time to reach a higher temperature. How long we have no idea.There is NO WAY you will get a UL (ETL) approval for the ATORCH in the USA. The device needs to be able to handle 15 amps continuously, as that is what your breaker at the main panel will allow.You risk melting or even creating a fire if you push current significantly higher than 10 amps for a long period. A device designed for US residential use will not even draw 15 A if it intended to be run continuously (like a space heater). 12A would be the maximum limit for a continuous run plug-in device on a 15 amp breaker (by US Electrical Code... 80%).The Kill-A-Watt IS a UL listed device (ETL), and specs for 15 amp continuous duty.The ATORCH meter, with internal relay is NOT UL listed, and it can never be with a 10A relay in it.They should offer the meter WITHOUT THE INTERNAL RELAY and make it safe for use in a typical US 15A outlet being run continuously.********************************6) Lastly, included in the manual is an application note for using this unit to remotely turn on and off your plug-in air conditioning system.That is a big fail. Guaranteed that 10A relay is only rated for resistive load (like lights, space heaters, electric water kettle, etc.)It will NOT handle an inductive load like a compressor motor in your plug Air conditioner. Anything with a larger motor in it will draw up to 8 times the normal running current of that motor on startup. REALLY TOUGH on switches and relays.****************************************Not a show stopper for me. I use this fantastic meter for testing, and yes even up to 15A continuous. But I am in the same room during that testing period, keeping an eye on it, feeling it for unusual temperature rise. And certainly, I would never try to start a larger induction motor with the internal relay.

Worked perfect, nice. Information but power consumption and billing rates are confusing.

Anything over about 2kw (20 amps x 120 volts = 2400 watts) triggers the automatic cutoff.As long as one is operating w/in 2kw, it works as advertised but spikes take it offline. I suppose the Chinglish instructions cover this, but it took me awhile and some trial-and-error to figure out what was happening and how to recover.Bottom line for me, though, is that this device is not up to my task of monitoring my standby generator's load because it disconnects the generator before the load reaches the gennie's limit of 4 kw.

Lots of features with WiFi connectivity… eye opening smart meter tells you how much power your device is drawing

Excelente, con información muy útil que incluye el costo operativo de lo que le conectes, pero habilitarlo no es intuitivo.Instrucciónes para Android:-Descargar app "Smart Life" de Play Store si no la tienes (abajo incluyo datos de la del fabricante).-Encuhfar el medidor (con o sin carga conectada).-En Smart Life, pulsar el icono de "+". Debe encontrar el "Smart Meter". Seguir las instrucciónes-Bajar la app "E-Test" de JackTang-Sugiero cambiar el idióma a "English" si no lees chino-Pulsar "Setup". Al ya tenerlo configurado con Smart Life lo debe enconrar solo, si no lo verá por Bluetooth-Smart Life quiere cobrar por dárte los costos de consumo. Aquí le das la vuelta. En esta app le das el precio por KWh. Una ves que lo hagas, se reflejará en Smart Life también.Buena suerte : )