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The Electric Lock Automatically Locks and Unlocks with Your Gate as it Opens and Close !
Reliable Protection
The X-House electric gate lock automatically locks and unlocks the gate when the gate opener is activated. It is a perfect solution to add security for your single or dual gate, provide stability and additional protection for damaging forces, prevent breakages at a strong wind, and improve animals’ safety. Electric lock is strongly recommended when your gate is longer than 7 feet (1.5 meters).
Waterproof & Multiple Applications
Suitable for all types of swing gates, and perfect for driveway gates made by steel, wood, vinyl, plastic and shaped as panel, tube, and chain-link. Work with most single or dual swing gate openers, as well as most 24V gate opener systems of other brands. It eliminates "wiggle room" between your gate/post, gate/fence, or gate/gate (in dual swing gate).
Safe to Use
The electric lock adds reinforcement to prevent against unwanted intrusion on gate systems. Weather-resistant for all seasons of the year. Manual Keys are included to enable manual operating during power outage or when you lose the remote. Higher quality designed plastic-spraying surface makes the lock more durable and reliable.
Small Control Board DS33A for multi garage door opener
This small control board 12-24 Volt AC/DC powered relay, you can use it for other gate/garage door operator brands. The Automatic Electric Lock unlocks and locks automatically as an electronic gate is activated to open and close (depend on standard 12V/24V gate outputs).
The blue and white adjustable resistance on the board is used to adjust the delay time:The minimum is 2 seconds counterclockwise and the maximum is 6.5 seconds clockwise.
When the door LOCK is working, the DS33A will power on, the relay absorbs and closes, and the delay begins. When the delay time reaches, the relay is disconnected.
Connecting Terminal :
- VCC : Connecting 12V/24V DC/AC on board power supply “+” .
- GND : Connecting power supply “-” .
- GND : Connecting to the LOCK port on the Ground board (Reserved terminal).
- NO : Directly connected to the electric lock power line in parallel for switching.
- CM : Directly connected to the electric lock power line in parallel for switching.
Automatic Electric Gate Lock for Swing Gate Operator Opener System AC/DC 12-24V
Three Rolling Teeth: The Swing Lock requires a fraction of the force that outlines the industry standard for the closing of gate locks.
IP68 gland is used to protect the cable and strengthen waterproof !
A keyed manual release can be used in case of power failure!
Small control board for multi gate usage. Wiring the Lock to gate opener control boards with terminal.
Electric Lock Installation Guide
STEP 1: Remove the front end of the actuator that is attached to the gate bracket with a clevis pin and clip pin. Wire tie of clamp the front end on the gate to support it. This will enable you to swing the gate manually while installing the gate lock. Please note that the front ends of both actuators need to be disconnected for dual gate systems.
STEP 2: Swing the gate to the closed position. Find the best position to mount the lock and the receiver. It must be level with the actuator. The lock should be mounted on a gate cross member or other solid part of the gate surface.
STEP 3: Position the lock in an approximate mounting position on a cross member or other mounting surface that is level with the actuator. The lock can be moved into an exact position later in the installation process.
STEP 4: Find a location on the fence post level with the gate lock and temporarily tie the lock receiver provided. Slide the gate lock back and forth until it lines up with the receiver. The pin holes on the receiver must line up with the slot in the lock. Once this position is achieved, mark the post through the center of the two slots in the receiver.
STEP 5: Drill through the marks on the post and attach the receiver with the mounting bolts, washers and nuts that you have purchased.
STEP 6: The gate lock must now be permanently mounted to the gate cross member or gate surface. Make sure that the lock is aligned with the receiver and mark holes on the gate through the upper and lower slots on the lock.
STEP 7: Drill holes through the marks and attach the lock to the gate surface with the appropriate hardware. Do not use bolts greater than 5/16 inch diameter as they will not It through the slots.
STEP 8: Insert the clevis pin through the holes in the receiver and hammer the locking cap onto the bottom of the pin.
NOTE: It may be easier to remove the receiver from the post and then hammer the pin into the blocking cap on a hard surface. Then the receiver can be remounted to the post.
It's pretty simple to make the lock work.
TIPS & Trouble Shooting
TIPS:
- Each Electric Lock kit package have and only have 2 keys. Once the keys are lost, they cannot be replaced !
- So please take good care of the key. It's recommended to make a key's copy.
How make the lock and little board DS33A work with my opener?
The little board supplied can be used to switch on a relay to supply the two amps needed to actuate the lock. The board itself only needs mill amps of current to work so will not impact the control board.
Keith S.
2025-08-17 11:19:37
I have a dual actuator Ghost gate opener. I could not get the board included with the lock to work correctly. I think because the controller initially outputs a small but increasing voltage on the red (or black) wire to get a smooth start to the opener until it reaches full speed at 12V, the initial voltage applied didn't seem to be high enough for the ghost board to "think" that the lock was open. I have a replacement main control board that Ghost shipped me when mine failed and I think they changed the programming on the newer boards. With the old board, I could get the lock to work by just jumping the positive (+) terminal to the signal (S) terminal on the ghost board, but with the new one, it would not work that way. My theory is that the controller is looking for a miniscule delay from the time the lock is actuated until the signal returns and that is why the jumper didn't work anymore. I say this because with the board jumpered, the opener would not operate, but by manually shorting + to S right after pushing the button, the opener would operate. This short delay meant that a time delay relay (TDR) should be the fix.I initially tried a hardware driven TDR, but when the lock actuated, the relay would flutter on and off multiple times per second and I was afraid that it would wear out in a week, so what I wound up doing was installing an electronic timer that had a delay function. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083HN673G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsIt has been rock solid so far and because it is completely electronic, it does not suffer from the flutter that the other relay had. It is possible that I got a bad relay, but it worked fine with other setups. Yes, it adds $35 to the cost of the setup, but it is still $100 cheaper than the ghost lock. I have attached an image showing how I wired the timer. I used function 1 and set the delay to 10/30ths (1/3) of a secondSorry for the long explanation, but I tried many different combinations (including the other ones listed on this page) and this was the only way I was finally able to get the lock to work reliably with my ghost control system
joe gieniec
2025-08-12 10:01:02
As indicated in my detailed instructions, the process to program this piece of junk can be done, however, the time expended to do so is a waste of time because the lock will become defective after it is used for a month or so.In my case, the lock worked flawlessly for about two months, teeth would quickly disengage when activated, then the teeth would not disengage even though it was receiving power. then worked intermittently for a month. Worked again. Then, a month or so later would work only when it wanted to. It is time to trash it.I tried to contact the seller, but that was impossible. Hopefully, Amazon will step in and get me a refund. If not, I will never buy anything on Amazon again because a few other items I purchased recently are also junk. From this experience it is clear that you get what you pay for, buy cheaply made junk, then that is what you get. As indicated in my detailed instructions, the process to program this piece of junkThe instructions provided by the seller were useless, (so was the information provided by the buyers who posted installation data) so that should have been a warning to return the lock, but I decided to spend several hours trying to figure out how to install it so it would work. I almost gave up, but perseverance paid off. (The only problem I encountered five months after purchase was the lock would malfunction (not open) when the outside temp hit above 105% which occasionally occurs here in the desert. Other than that, the lock works fine so.I purchased this item on Amazon, the seller was/is EZY Control, aka X-X House.On or about September 1, 2022, less than three months after installation, the gate lock became defective, that is the teeth would not engage/release when activated, thus preventing the gate from opening.I was hoping there was a way to contact the seller for assistance, however, there is no way to do that, si I to contact Amazon and was told they would issue a refund.In retrospect I should not have been so penurious and just purchased a Ghost Controls Zombie lock, but I was trying to save a buck. As I justified the purchase to my wife, this lock was 1/2 the price of a Zombie lock. Now the wife is laughing at me as I spend the time removing it.END OF COMPLAINT. For those of you who disregard my experience, I am leaving my instructions how to quickly install the gate lock. Raad it, look at the photos as it will save you a lot of time.For the reading challenged, I posted clear and concise photos showing how to make the requisiteconnections to enable this lock to work on your GS gate opener lickity split, so, just skip the narrative and look at the photos. I tried to post the photos in order of use, however, Amazon changed the sequence order so I numbered them 1-7 left to right.Moreover, if you want to use the lock as designed, to securely open and close the gate while inside your car, without having to exit to manually lock the gate, I am providing information and guidance to help in that regard. Photos are also posted.To begin, to ensure the Ghost Controls control box reflected in the photos I posted is the same model as yours (most GC control boxes are the same or very similar), you may find it wise to take a couple minutes to read the following, then compare the photos to your specific model.I took the time to post these instructions & photos because as another purchaser pointed out, whoever posted the 3 photos of the installation process for the GC (which I relied on to my detriment) must have done so with the goal of showing how not to attach the wires because the diagram is WRONG!! (Those photos may be for a GC Zombie lock which will NOT work for this lock) The Zombie Lock, which may be easier to connect because it is a GC, however, it costs twice as muchFollowing the information set forth herein will make the task almost as easy as connecting a GC Zombie lock.Threre is another post, long and rambling provided by another purchaser which was accurate, I found it confusing, having to read it several times.Finally, after I installed the lock I discovered if I want to securely close and open the gate from my car I would have to replace the clevis pin that came with the lock with one designed for a lock. I explained in detail below how to accomplish that task.Hopefully the following information will be helpful. To avoid confusion, I will begin by identifying the model I installed for my daughter: HDP1, Manor Series, single column. (Costco HDSK)HERE ARE THE INSTRUCTIONS:1. Don't waste time contacting the seller unless you speak Chinese.2. Parts needed: 1) 12 inches of red 16/8 AWG wire; 2) 12" of black 18/18 AWG wire; 3) 12" of blue, or any color 16/18 AWG wire; 4) three (3) electrical connectors; 5) locking clevis pin.3. Open the GC control box and look (bottom center) for one black and one red wire coming from the battery box to the control box. Those two wires are connected to two wires in the control box. (right hand side) They are push and pull, so easy to disengage. (see 6-7)4. Disconnect both the red and black wires that are connected to the two blue push and pull connectors. Use two (2 red connectors) of the electrical wire connectors to connect the wires, then snap the battery/control box wires together. You now have four (4) dangling wires, one red and one black. (See photos 6-7)5. Fetch the small control board DS33A that came with the lock and connect the red wire to the NO (4) terminal. (The terminals are numbered 1-5)(See photos 3, 5)6. Connect the black wire to GND terminal number 2. (See photos 3, 5)7. I am next presuming you have run the lock wires, one red, one blue, up through the GC control box. If not, do that next. Easy peasy.8. Connect either wire to the CM (5) terminal on the small Control Board DS33A. (see photos 3, 5)9. Connect the other wire to GND terminal number 3. (see photos 3, 5)10. Fetch about 12" of 16/18 gauge wire, blue, green, purple, any color except red or black and connect it to the number 1 (VCC) terminal on the DS331 lock control board. (see photos 3, 5)11. To check to insure you made the correct connections, take the wire described in No 10 above and run it up to the battery box and quickly touch the positive terminal. If you hear a click, then go to the next final step. If no click, follow the instructions again.12. Just about done. Look for the 1st Operator connection in the GC control box. (near bottom on the far right hand side) Depending upon whether you have a push or pull opener will determine where you attach the No. 1 wire VCC. (see above No 10)(see photo 2)13. If you have a push operator, fetch the electrical wire connector and splice it to the VCC wire to the black terminal. If you have a pull operator, tie into the red terminal. (See photo 2)if you followed the instructions, you are done.SECURING THE LOCK:As others have pointed out, when the gate is closed, if not locked with a key, (which would be a pain in the ...) every time you opened and closed the gate you would have to fetch a key and lock it to prevent intruders.What I initially did was purchase a stainless steel clevis pin ($9.00) at Ace Hardware, bored out one of the holes to make it larger to accommodate the combo lock, (Brinks model 171-30051) then slid the lock inside. I did not like the way the lock sat in the slot so I bought a GC locking clevis pin on Amazon. (See photos reflecting different clevis pins)(see photo 1)The GC pin was wider than the top and bottom clevis pion slots in the lock mounting bracket so I grabbed my Harbor Freight rotary tool and bore out the slots in the bracket by about 1/32 of an inch. (see photo 4)DONE
Dewayne Aaron
2025-03-03 13:08:57
had a deck door that enters my deck that I wanted to secure to prevent squatters from making a home there, so I purchased this lock. It works seamlessly with my door access system as expected. A good buy overall.
Kindle Customer
2025-02-28 11:31:13
When my old exit loop started opening the driveway gate at random times I looked for a replacement. This was the one I chii oh se. it works well. I wish the cord from the sensor to my control box was five or ten feet longer, but it was just sufficiently long to work. The outer jacket on the long wire is thicker and of better quality than my old unit. I give this unit a thumbs up on quality materials.
carlos lee
2024-12-08 10:36:37
It catches the gates energy time. Good quality
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