I installed 2 of these. One light fixture is a 2-tube fluorescent and the other is a single bulb CFL. Both work fine.We needed (wanted?) to eliminate turning on the lights in the pantry and the master closet every time we went in. These switches provided the solution.Hints:When you wire them correctly, the LED on the front of the switch will begin flashing immediately. After your install, if you turn the circuit breaker on and you don't get the LED then just turn off the breaker, reverse the wires at the BK and RD terminals and turn the breaker back on. You should see the LED flashing.Find the two small rotary switches UNDER the detector face plate (press down on the top and pull forward a bit to get it loose) and read about them in OPERATION and ADJUSTMENT SETTINGS in the instructions.Once the switch turns on and the closet (or whatever) light comes on, the switch will not work again until the timer has run out. That is, if you have it set for 5 minutes and it turns on the light, the timer will run for 5 minutes and turn the light off. But be aware that if you manually turn it off with the push button below the sensor, the switch will NOT detect motion until the remainder of the original 5 minutes (or whatever time you have set) has run out. So,when you are working and setting things up, set the timer to minimum (30 seconds) or you will think things just aren't working but they really are.Our closet light is outside the closet, at one end of the main area of the master bath. That meant that the switch could "see" the entire room and so it turned on the closet light any time anyone went into the master bath. My solution was to use a bit of black tape and cover a portion of the sensor so that it limited its field of view to the area near the closet doors. A little trial and error and I had it just right.

Finally, a motion sensor that actually works and at a good price - $15..This unit does require a ground (or neutral).It works just fine..I wish it has a "manual on" button.. where I can leave it ON for longer than the preset time..This does not have a "manual on".. Meaning - even if you turn it on by manually pressing it on, it would turn off in the preset time.. You cannot leave it on permanently - which is desirable under certain circumstances - many times, I seem to need it for certain locations - for example, you walk into the garage and if you are working out of sight to the switch, you would need a "manual on" - on those specific occasions.. but not on a daily basis..What I wish I had is a switch with on/off/Auto.. This is not that switch..It works just fine with LEDs because it has a relay, which is turned on/off with motion..Some/Many of older switches do the on/off function with semi conductors - therefore, they always needed a resistive load (like a filament bulb) or even those which worked with flourescent, did leak current thru the semi conductor - which would make the LEDs flash.. But those old switches had higher power ratingFortunately, this leviton has a relay (which you can hear going on/off) but unfortunately, it seems to be a small relay switch.. Caution: Please remember the 300 watt limitation of the relay switch

This occupancy sensor does a good job once you get it into place and set the way you want it. Here are some things you need to know to make it work well:1. This is a single pole switch only. If you have a three-way switch, you will need a different sensor, such as the Lutron Maestro MS-OPS5M-WH. If you get into what you think is an ordinary single pole switch and find it has three wires attached to it, you more than likely have a three-way switch.2. Unlike an ordinary light switch, this switch cares which wire is hot and which is not. Before you turn off the power to the circuit, use a multimeter to figure out which wire is hot by placing one probe on the ground wire bundle (bare copper in the back of the box) and one probe on each switch terminal in turn. You’ll need to turn the existing switch itself off to do this – otherwise there will not be any voltage difference between the two terminals. I use a bit of painter’s tape above or below the switch to indicate which wire is hot. Then, after flipping the breaker and pulling the switch out, I use the painter’s tape to mark the hot wire before disconnecting it from the old switch’s terminal.3. This switch requires a ground wire. Your existing switch likely does not. You will need to purchase some wire, 12 or 14 gauge, to connect to the existing ground wires that are twisted and capped off inside the switch box. Buy several feet, because once you start installing these sensors you will find additional uses for them around the house! You’ll need at most six inches of wire for each sensor. Go ahead and strip off two or three inches of insulation for the part that you are going to twist with the existing bundle of ground wires. This makes integrating your new ground wire into the existing bundle so much easier than stripping just a short piece. Besides, it’s a ground wire! The existing ground wires in the box are completely bare, so no worries about having extra bare wire here.4. Before connecting anything to this sensor, use a screwdriver to ensure that all the terminal screws turn freely. Sometimes the coating on these screws can cause difficulty at first and must be broken loose. This is SO much easier to do before you start trying to hook things up to it. After you have made the connections to the sensor, go back over your tightening routine a couple of times. For some reason, I had some I thought were tight but turned out to be loose and needed at least two or three more turns to be tight. Weird.5. Once all your connections are made, but before shoving everything back into the box and screwing the sensor to the wall, turn the breaker back on. Some of these sensors will immediately come to life, turning on the lights. Others will sit and stupidly blink a green light for some time before coming to life. Give these slow learner switches a chance to warm up and come to life before writing them off and sending them back. Once the switch is functioning, flip the breaker off and use a blunt stick of some sort to shove the wires back into the box. Then, attach the sensor to the switch box using the two provided screws.6. Before applying the switch plate (you’ll need one of the ‘decora’ switch covers – available at any home improvement store), you need to set the delay and light sensitivity. The delay is how long the lights stay on after motion ceases. I have found that five minutes (setting 1) works well for closets and laundry rooms. Thirty seconds (setting 0) works well for toilet areas. If the light goes out while you’re doing your business, just wave. It will come back on. I didn’t mess with the light sensitivity setting. There is no adjustment for motion sensitivity. The adjustment screws for delay and light sensitivity are under the plastic portion of the switch that is exposed during normal use. You must pull it from the top to remove it. A small flat-blade screwdriver does the trick for turning the adjustments. Snap the plastic piece back into place, being careful not to break off the little tabs that hold it in place.7. Apply the switch plate and take it for a spin. If, after living with the sensor, you decide you need to adjust it, just remove the switch plate and repeat step number 6.I only gave it four stars due to the 'slow learner' problem mentioned above, which does not affect all of these sensors equally. I currently have five of these installed at the house. Early in the project, I sent one switch back. Now I wonder if it was simply a slow learner like a couple I received in my second order.

Facile à installer. ne requiert pas de neutre. Facile à ajuster. Installer au garage - très pratique.

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Works amazing, just bought a second one. Only problem is when the switch loses power it will not work correctly for a couple minutes.

No sirve el sensor de movimiento siempre está prendido no prende el led, el producto estaba dañado y no se hicieron resposables

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