Eric Erling Johnson
2025-02-03 15:01:01
When I first installed this in my car, it ran better than ever before. This is most likely because I had put off doing my points for a fue months. I did this job in the parking lot with the tools out of the back of my car. When I wired this up I made a big mistake. I was eager to get rid of the transistor box above my coil, and all the faulty wiring that went along with the point system. I kept the black 12 V power supply to the positive side of the coil, but removed another wire that went to the voltage regulator(as i found out later). I expected the voltage regulator to sense off the alternator or batterie. Anyways, my voltage regulator charged the batteries to 18V with the small amount of driving I did. This worked fine with the stock coil. But caused the 45000 voltage coil I installed the next day to run at 70,000 V, which was too much for the distributor to control. When you wire up your coil, you can get rid of the box with the ballast resistor, but the stock coil says that it is designed to run with this. The alternative to this system is too keep the points and wire up a capacitve discharge box to them. This runs a small signal current through the points and reduces wear(like a high teck version of the transistor box in the car now). I have heard people claim that the points don't need to be changed for five years. This sounds fun, and the capacitve discharge box reduces the time it takes to charge the coil. However this is offset by not having the adaptive dwell of this product. Obviously, the solution is to buy this product, the high voltage coil, and the capacitive discharge/ multi-spark box, then increase the gap on the spark plugs. However, I think this product with a high voltage coil is simple, and uses less engine bay space. This is most likely good enough for any stock car.