I purchased these LED bulbs Amber to replace the oem rear turn signals on my 2014 Scion Tc. I felt like I needed to change them out because they weren’t bright enough. Especially since it gets dark quick now. These new LED bulbs are extremely bright. In the picture, I installed the LED blinker on the left and the original one is still on the right. So you can see the difference of the brightness. They make me feel safer on the road knowing people will notice when I change lanes. My original bulb is 7440. These 7443 leds fit very well. One note as the seller stated, I do need a load resistor for each bulb to prevent the hyper flash since they draw much less power. It’s quite normal and easy to me. They’re well made and worth the price. I highly recommend these.

Great product, stopped the hyper flash and the errors on my 2016 JKU Wrangler. A couple of tips for JKU drivers. On my 2016 and my buddies 2011 JKU, these resistors will attach one end to the far right white striped wire and the far left Black ground wire. The center wire will be untouched. I cut my wires and used but connectors, and shoved them back into the protective wire loom and wrapped it in electrical tape. When mounting the resistors to the vehicle DO NOT attach them to plastic and DO NOT use zip ties. The reason is because these will get VERY hot, hot enough to melt plastic. Mount them to a solid piece of metal. I mounted mine directly behind the blinker housing on the metal brace that runs diagonally across. Then to make sure that no plastic or wires were touching the resistor, I used a zip tie around any wires that might touch the resistor and pulled them tightly so they can't touch and melt.

worked great for my LED headlight conversion from original halogens. LED headlights didn't consume enough electricity to allow the high beam indicator light on dashboard to light up. Simply installing the resistor into the now unused headlight socket the indicator lights up as original. Cheap and easy fix.

Update 10/01/2017: Everything's still working perfectly.These gizmos immediately cured the hyper-flashing caused by the Lumen 3157 PlaZma LEDs that I installed in our 2014 Chevy Impala's tail light assemblies.In the Impala, a single 3157 Bulb handles Tail / Park / Stop / Turn Signal / Emergency functions (a separate 194 bulb serves as a Marker light). It was the Turn Signal and Emergency Flasher functions only that caused issues.The resistors I bought locally are clearly the same thing--I just paid too much for mine! These resistors are marketed under several brand names. For reasons unknown, mine said "For Off-Road Use Only!" Go figure--it's the same thing you see here. They're clearly the same product, practically identical, and made to the same specs (50W & 6Ohm).All these things do is waste current by converting it to heat, to mimic the inefficient light bulb you just replaced with an efficient LED! This fools your car's CPU into thinking the old bulb is still there, wasting electricity! How cool is that?Using a (light-in-handle) line tester, I quickly located the blinker wire (yellow in this case) and connected one lead of the resistor to the black common ground wire and the other to the yellow blinker wire, both of which fed into the 3157 bulb's socket. That's it--done deal!I left the turn signal run and immediately saw that the hyper-flash was cured. The emergency flashers worked right too. I also noticed that this resistor got perceptibly warmer, but there was none of the intense heat buildup that I'd been warned about... So, I secured the resistor to one of the tail light's four mounting posts with two zip-strips, and that was that!It's only been a week, but everything's 5X5.I knocked off one star for the complete lack of instructions enclosed. Fortunately, I pretty much knew what I was doing and why... There's You Tube on this if you get stuck.BUY YOURS ON AMAZON AND SAVE $$$$$As another reviewer mentioned, the other route you might take is to swap out your OEM Flasher Relay with an "LED Compatible" Flasher Relay. But that route is not exactly "Plug and Play" for everybody either... And the relay module may not fit neatly into your fuse box...One day all this LED stuff will be standard... But we get to live in the "transition time". Good luck, guys! Remember You Tube!UPDATE 04/18/2016: Installed two more of these--from Amazon this time--along with two JDM Switchback Amber/White LED Running Light/Turn Signal Bulbs, which I installed into my new SPEC-D Tuning 2LHP-IPA06-TM Projector LED U-BAR Headlights. As advertised, they cure the hyper-flashing you see when switching to LED bulbs.I prefer solderless crimp-connectors wrapped in electrical tape to these quickie line-tap thingies.Note: If you attach these resistors to the ground and the blinker wires only, I have found that they do not get all that hot. In my 2014 Impala, that's the yellow and the black wires.Note: I used a stainless steel key-ring and a zip-strip to suspend the Resistor behind each headlight module, where it radiates any heat away harmlessly. The metal key ring attaches to the resistor, and the zip-strip attaches the key ring to the car's frame. Zip two or more strips together if you have to, to get the needed length!Note: In some applications these resistors will get hot enough to melt plastic or even cook the paint off of a metal surface. If this is an issue, you're better off not attaching the resistor (heat sink) directly to the surface in question. The are are High Temperature Double-Sided Mounting Tapes available, but I have no experience with them. Suspending the resistor allows heat to dissipate harmlessly.RayB

Bought some LED strips (top of photo) to replace my turn signals. Of course, it introduced hyperflash. With these resistors, the blink rate is normal. Works perfectly.I did not use the wire connectors, since I was installing these at the same time I was installing the led strips. So I just did a 3-way solder joint. I used some sheet metal screws to secure the resistor heat sink to the frame.It seems unlikely they'll get too hot since I don't use my turn signals much while offroading but figured that it's just as good to keep them secure from bouncing around so might as well secure to the body so they don't overheat either.Quite happy with the new led turn signals and doubly so since they don't have hyperflash.

These worked great on a GMC Terrain/Chevy Equinox to get rid of the hyper flash. The biggest downside to these resistors are they're not totally watertight. The heat shrink on the ends is just shrunk around the bare resistor leads, and is not a watertight seal. The way these are built is the resistor is shoved inside the aluminum housing and then the void filled with some kind of resin. The resistor leads are left hanging out and then the wires soldered to them and the connection heatshrunk. When/if you bend the leads to fit the resistor into a tight space, you'll discover the heatshrink is not actually watertight...so corrosion will happen on the bare leads over time. Whether that is 2 years or 10 years, that is another debate. When installing, I'd consider rubbing some dielectric grease around the ends to help prevent any future corrosion. In my opinion, the actual wire should be soldered onto the resistor leads inside the aluminum housing and be resin'd into it along with the resistor. This will create a true water seal.

Just the trick to get the LED union jack rear lights on my Mini Cooper S R53 from hyperflashing. Easy to fit, took about 40 minutes in all and now lights work perfectly.

Installed these when I changed from halogen to LED turn signals. The turn signals work great, so these are doing their job. Installation was easy on paper, but more from the space under the hood of my car, it was a little frustrating. The t-taps (red clips) are great, no need to cut any wires.

Great

was not easy to fit to car

Work perfect, thanks very much. I used them for my motorcycle turn signals. I have an integrated headlight and without this device my signals would stay on solid and make my tears go solid. Solved the problem. Easy to use.