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Your cart is empty.Product Description
Wide Application:
- This flaring tool can be used with 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 4.75mm diameter lines
- Used for original steel, stainless steel, and soft metal tubing
- Suitable for automotive brake lines, transmission cooler lines and fuel lines and more
Professional Brake Flaring Tool
Function
- Used to create 45-degree single, double and bubble brake flares on 304 stainless steel, steel and soft metal tubing in a short time
Accurate
- This brake pipe flaring tool has been professionally designed and rigorously tested to be highly accurate and stable, and it can produce many types of perfect flares in a short period of time, it is professional brake line and tubing flaring tool
Durable
- Made of high quality steel and heat-treated and oxidized, it is extremely hard, durable and not easy to be damaged; at the same time
Package Include
- Brake Flaring Tool
- 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8” and 4.75mm Split Dies
- Rotating Die Head
- Lever Handle
- 3-19mm 1/8''-3/3'' Flare Separation Tool
- Instruction Manual
- A Portable Case
Brake Flaring Tool
- Used to making the perfect flare
- Doesn't deform the pipe
- Doesn't take a lot of effort to form the flares, you can feel it's natural stop point
Just need to get ready
- Doing a flare in tens of seconds
- Works consistently every time
A Variety of Split Dies
- Split Dies: 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8” and 4.75mm
- Used for 304 stainless steel, steel and soft metal tubing
Flare Separation Tool
- Used to separate the original tubing to bend the line into shape in order to match the end of the line to the fitting in the mold.
Preparing Tubing
- Square cut tube ends
- Burr the tube inside and out, making sure that metal shavings have been removed from the inside and outside of the tube
- Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the cut tube ends.
- You can add a little oil to the reaming cones (OP.1 and OP.2)
- Use a tool to bend the tubing to shape, leaving approximately 1.5 inches of clearance
- Place the appropriate fittings over the ends of the tubing, with the flared ends facing outward
How to Operate
Step 1
1. Place the tool in a secure vise and hold it in place.
2. Place the approximately 11-inch long handle into the hole in the lever base and make sure it is fully seated.
3. Pull out the black ball-end clevis pin and release the upper vise.
Step 2
1. Select the desired parting size and insert the die into the recess in the tool base.
2. The beveled countersunk end faces the flared tapered end, with the back end next to the step.
3. Place the tube between the two halves of the mold, with the tube end flush with the flared end of the mold, not beyond the
Step 3
1. Place the other flare die size on top of the tube, close to the lower flare die
2. Rotate the die head so that the flat die OP.O faces the end of the tube and use the OP.O die as a stop gauge to move the lever inward toward the fuselage. (Note: Tube end must be flush with end of die)
3. Turn the clamp back to its original position, push the clamp pin through the hole and back into the tool until the black knob is against the tool body.
4. Attention: Tighten the "T" handle above the arc clamp to hold the parting mold and tube in place and prevent stability problems with subsequent operations.
Step 4
1. Check arc clamps for tightness
2. Re-advance the flat die OP.0 at this point into the end of the tube so that the end of the tube is flush with the end of the die set to form a complete flare.
Step 5
1. Select the OP.1 size that fits your pipe
2. Rotate the flat die so that the OP.1 flaring die is facing the pipe mouth.
3. Move the lever against the body of the tool, applying enough force to create a flare until it stops.
4. NOTE: At this point, a bubble flare has been formed. To create a 45 degree flare, continue with the following steps.
Step 6
1. Rotate the original OP.1 die head and select die head OP.2 of the same size as OP.1
2. Rotate the OP.2 die head towards the end of the tube.
3. Move the long lever towards the tool body with appropriate force to form the inverted portion of the flare, until it stops.
4. At this point, a complete flare is formed.
Step 7
1. Turn the handle screw above the arc retainer, pull out the black ball retaining pin, then remove the arc device, remove the split dies.
2. Finally, you can take out the completed flared tube
Customer
2025-07-26 12:24:06
I bought this tool to make stainless steel 1/4 double flare brake lines for a whole truck. I had my doubts when I purchased it because of the relatively low price. However after reading the instructions and a few test runs. We got it figured out. A few hints. Use a good reamerwith a long taper for the inside with cutting oil. This greatly reduces the chance of splitting stainless steel line for the inside flare. Second don't be cheap on the brake line buy high quality line. Lastly use never seize on the dies like the instructions say. This acts as a lubricant. Finally be shure to clean inside and out when you are done. Cutting oil and never seize probably will not work well as brake fluid. Overall it is very easy to use and I feel like the tool is made quite well. Definitely a good purchase!
DG
2025-07-04 10:57:52
Works well. Had to practice a bit but easy to use.
Chase Langley
2025-05-25 12:59:29
Works great once you get the set up figured out. Don't forget to put the nut on first
Customer
2025-05-12 17:55:52
Tool works very well and produces a nice flair
James Madison
2025-03-15 16:37:15
I bought this DPTOOL Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit to replace the flaring tool I've been using for the last 25 years which was wearing out. This tool does not have the precision necessary to make quality results. I could not get it to make decently formed ISO ('bubble') flares or double flared tube ends in copper, brass or steel. It made also mal-formed single flares that were not usable. Don't waste your money or time with this product!!! My old worn-out tool does MUCH better.
alvin maneval
2025-01-12 15:27:52
seems well made , holds tubing tight and makes nice smooth flares , makes a nice bubble flare if you do not push handle all the way around , stop about 3/4 of the way
Customer
2024-11-30 12:35:50
So I bought two of this style on Amazon, and this one was the much better of the two. The reason why is because in the vice the handle on this one pulled towards the user while the handle of the other one pushed away I recognize that I could turn the machine the other direction, but if you’re right handed you want the handle in your right hand. Also dies on this one Were a lot nicer because they had pins so that you couldn’t miss a line the two halves.However, one major oversight on this one is that the end that is marked 45° taper is not cut on a 45° and the end that’s marked DIN not on a 90 so another words, the marking on the dyes are exactly opposite and match the opposite end so when you’re looking at it, typically you would read the end that you’re wanting and then put that in towards the work, But on this one, you have to put the end that is marked what you want away from the work. If you can remember that you’re fine.It did produce nice crimps. I tried it on 3/16 and quarter inch but for the cost and not being able to use it on the car also I’m probably going to get something different.
JS
2024-11-15 15:16:43
It is so simple and works wonders. Don't waste your time with parts-store flaring tools.
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