Works great on my homebuilt wort chiller. Easy to wire up.

Picked up a mid-2000s Red Bull countertop mini fridge. It worked and cooled, but would occasionally "chatter" the compressor on and off, causing it to stall and trip the overload switch. After checking the overload and motor starter, the cuplrit seemed to be it's electronic thermostat circuit board. Parts are unobtanium, so ultimately just tossed it and replaced it with the Inkbird. Wiring it in was a snap, just follow the diagram provided. It's fans are tied to the compressor (cool) power. The "heat" side was not used as this was for a fridge. The only slightly tricky part was the original temp sensor had a very different resistance than the one with the inkbird, however, the wiring for it was sealed into the unit via the foam insulation and couldn't really be removed- or a new one shoved through- without drilling a new hole through the insulation and steel case, which I wanted to avoid. I ultimately clipped off the wiring at the probe and the controller, spliced the Inkbird probe onto the wiring, slid it back into the original probe holder, and then attached that wire into the Inkbird. Reusing the original wiring through the case, but with the new probe at the end. Temp was reading correct. At that point, it was just a little trial and error playing with the set point and temp differential.For a drinks (well, mostly beer) fridge, this is what I found worked the best for ice cold beverages, without it excessively cycling on/off.Set point- 32* FDifferential- 12* F (so, it will kick ON at 44*, and OFF at 32*). I've found at room temperature, this results is a roughly 30% duty cycle on the compressor- it runs for about 10 minutes, then is off for about 20). I've had no issues with even soft drinks freezing or being slushy- popping a can fresh out of the fridge and checking the liquid temp shows about 36*- or the "average" temp in the box.I left the compressor lockout at the default 3 minutes (the cycle time is much longer than that anyway, so it really should never be needed), and the temp "calibration" also at the default (zero), as I found it's reading to be spot on.For a fridge with fresh foods I'd probably keep the differential a bit lower for safety, but for canned beverages, a bit more fluctuation is fine. Saves power and wear/tear on the compressor with less frequent starts.It's been running for a couple months now with zero issue. The fridge pulls about 120 watts when it's running- or only about 1 amp, so the 10 amp rated relays in the Inkbird are more than sufficient, no additional relays or anything needed. That's quite a bit given it's size, only a little less than a full size residential fridge/freezer, but these little commercial drink fridges have relatively high cooling power (to recover/chill warm restock cans quickly from constantly being opened- this was originally intended to live on the counter of a gas station).Anyway for $20 it's a no brainer. Got a fridge/freezer with a bad controller? Or just want to be able to customize the set points? Get this.

I was almost put off by the negative reviews, but I got this thermostat for my leopard gecko egg incubator. I needed something that would keep the temp at 88* F constantly. Although this T-stat was a little difficult to wire in initially, and required some parts it didn't come with (a plug, outlet, jumper wire), which is a small price to pay for such an inexpensive thermostat, it did it's job very, VERY well. I already have hatched healthy leopard geckos from two clutches, and I have another clutch that should hatch in about 3 days. The eggs are very healthy and this will be my first 100% hatch rate EVER. I also hatched cricket eggs in the incubator controlled by this T-stat.The T-stat has kept the temperature within 1.5* F in both directions constantly for several months now. I have been EXTREMELY happy with this product, so uch so that I ended up getting another one specifically for my cricket eggs. Same great results.Another great thing with this T-stat is that it's small size and convenient shape makes it very easy to build into whatever you are using it for, in my case an incubator.The only reason I don't recommend this for everyone who needs a T-stat is that wiring is a bit difficult. It requires at least some prior knowledge of electronics, and it's definately not "plug 'n' play". I definately wouldn't recommend anyone who doesn't have experience with electronics try to use this. You are dealing with 120v AC. Show some respect! But after it's wired in it works well.There are also two diagrams on how to wire it in, which are both feasible but it is a bit confusing. I recommend that you follow the colored diagram on the FAQs sheet included with the product, because with that diagram all the "hot" wiring is inside the unit. That will reduce the risk of shock, fire, etc. The yellow, ground wire on that diagram is unnecessary, though it is safer.Overall, it's a great thermostat for a great price. I will definately be using it again!

Excelente producto, los materiales de muy buena calidad, funciona muy bien para control automático de ventiladores para mi acuario.

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Great replacement/upgrade for traditional mechanical fridge thermostat.The mechanical thermostat on my fridge failed. Original piece was no longer available at a reasonable price, so I got a universal replacement. It seemed to work, but had a terrible hysteresis....meaning it would run the compressor until the fridge was cooled to the desired 2 degrees C, but would only turn the compressor back ON again when the fridge temperature rose to a balmy 8 or 9 degrees C. I found this wide margin between compressor OFF and ON temperatures to be unacceptable.I stumbled upon this Inkbird ITC-1000 unit by accident and was skeptical at first but decided to give it a try.VERY VERY pleasantly surprised !!!It is compact, and once you understand the programming functions and parameters it is very easy to use. I had to read the instructions a couple of times but after that it was a breeze.Wiring the unit is simple. Power cord, sensor, and in my case, 2 wires to the compressor control wires. I tested the compressor running current and it's about 2 amps.....the ITC-1000 relay contacts have a spec of 10 amps, so no problem there.The unit has been running without issues for a few weeks now. I have set the temperature ("ts" in the programming menu) to 2 degrees C , and the delta ("ds" in the programming menu) to 2 degrees C.So, the compressor will run until the fridge cools to 2 degrees C, then switches OFF. It switches ON again when the temperature rises to 4 degrees C, which is "ts" plus "ds", and starts to cool again.Overall this is an excellent unit and is cost effective as well. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

Esta bien y los diagramas te ayudan a la instalación solo que la configuración es un poco complicada.

Got this to fix a small wine fridge that the old mechanical thermostat failed twice. Works way better at controlling the temperature. I just had to run a new neutral wire to run this controller and put the hot lead to both the controller and to the switched compressor. And it also displays the the current temperature. The sensor I placed in the middle of the fridge so it captures the actual temp instead of the cooling coils like the old mechanical did.