Works wonderfully well as a three way switch in a dark basement stairwell. One sensor switch at the top and one at the bottom. No more fumbling for the switch in the dark.Installation can be tricky, but NOT because of the product. The difficulty comes with unlabeled wires in the switch box and colors of wires in the switch box that may be difficult discern and don’t match up with the switches. Highly recommended to use a live line (voltage) detector to identify the hot line from your circuit box, and to confirm which line is powered in the second switch (so called master switch). It may take trial and error to connect the “traveler 1” and “traveler 2” lines so everything works as expected. Diagrams in instructions are useful.It is a new purchase as of June 2022, so I cannot speak to this product’s durability, but it seems well made.

Timed motion 3way, works great,black, blue are the travelersi like it

I noticed some one star reviews for this product, as well as some people claiming that the instructions were wrong and the review by "vimish" is actually the right one. After studying the diagram closely, it seems like this reviewer and the instructions included in the product are both basically saying the SAME thing, however the confusion seems to be because the instructions are unduly terse in the parts that matter and don't explain it well at all (at least to the average layperson). In contrast, the reviewer mentioned does elaborate on the wiring diagram in Fig. 6 and gives you the full picture on how the wiring is to be done.I have included the instructions that came with the product below as well, just to serve as a reference if anyone needs it. In my case I needed to refer to Fig. 6, as I bought the two-pack switches and wanted to replace both my normal three-way switches -- the switches were at opposite ends of a stairway that is always dark, even in the morning. The reviewer named "vimish" includes a very thorough and helpful walkthrough of the wiring process, which I actually referred when trying to install the switches. Now, one thing you will notice about the included instructions are that they indeed are somewhat brief, and you can ignore most of the wording there as the wiring diagram itself is just about the clearest set of instruction to be found in the manual. The only gripe I have about this product is their lack of elaboration on the diagram itself, which seems to be the most useful part of it. I get that they might be trying to conserve wording in the limited space they have, but even still - I always believe that it's better to "overload" your average consumer with information rather than withholding crucial details, as this can very easily lead to head-scratching and general confusion; if this required them to include a separate sheet of paper in an effort to provide said information, then so be it.So after examining the diagram closely yourself, you will see some key details relating to the wiring process begin to emerge:* The line voltage mentioned is equivalent to the line hot (black wire) which carries it. This is the wire that connects to the circuit breaker and provides power to the light source via the switch.* The load in the diagram is equivalent to the no-current load (black wire) which carries it. This is the wire that connects to your light source and allows you to turn it on/off.* One of your switches will be connected to the circuit breaker, the other has a connection with the light source. The switches share this connection with each other via the "traveler" wires, e.g. the ones that are part of a red/black wire bundle.* A total of three (3) connections will be made with the sensor black wire on the LINE side; the extra connection is the black "traveler" wire which will provide power to the non-current side. On the LOAD side, similarly three (3) connections will be made but this time with the red sensor wire instead; the extra connection here is the red "traveler" wire which will provide a connection to the light source on the LINE side.* Only two (2) connections will be needed for all other the other sensor wires. The only exception is the blue sensor wires which simply need to be capped off, as is also mentioned in the instructions. Consult the wiring diagram included, or look up review by "vimish" for further elaboration.* There seems to be a minor error in the diagram: on the 2nd switch the white sensor wire appears to be connected to the ground (bare copper) wire. In fact, for both the switches the green sensor wire connects to ground (copper wire), and the white sensor wire connects to the neutral (white wire), which are generally wire-nutted together at the back of the box. This is also a general rule of thumb for switches in general.TIPS:* Ignore the note in the instructions that tells you to "connect one of the traveler wires to the line voltage instead of the sensor switch" on the LINE side. I don't know why they mention this but it's deliberately misleading and doesn't agree at all with the included diagram. You will connect the sensor black wire, the black "traveler" wire, and the line voltage (black wire with current, not part of a red/black bundle) together on the LINE side.* Be sure to label the following two black wires with some tape: (1) the line hot wire that conducts current on the LINE side, and (2) the non-current wire that connects to the light source on the LOAD side. To determine which black wire is which, you would need to use an AC voltage tester to determine which wire is conducting current; also be sure they are not the "traveler" wires which are typically part of a red/black bundle. First switch OFF the power to the switches, and be sure to test that power is off with a voltage tester. You can leave your current normal switches still connected, but make sure to pull them out of the box so the wires are fully exposed. Then, turn ON the power in the breaker box once you are ready and test the wires carefully using a non-contact voltage tester. On the LINE side, you will find two black wires to be conducting current - but if you look closely one of them will be the black "traveler" wire; the other one is your line hot. On the LOAD side, you will find only one black wire to not be conducting current, this is the wire that runs to your light fixture and allows you to turn it on/off.* In my case, after I finished wiring both the switches and turned ON the power, neither of the sensors would initially activate. What I had to do for both sides was turn ON the switch, and then walk out of the room so the sensor times out after the default 15 seconds and automatically turns OFF the light. Only after doing this, was I able to confirm that the sensors on both switches are working as expected. The "troubleshooting" section in the included manual does seem to mention this, but it doesn't clarify what to do that well either.SUGGESTED TOOLS:Below are some tools that you might need, so before purchasing this product make sure you have them on hand.* Non-Contact AC Voltage Tester -- you need this to test which switch is connected to your circuit breaker, and which is connected to the light source.* Wire straightener pliers -- well, to straighten wires that might be bent around any screws. If you have normal three-way switches, wires can be curled around black or green screws on your switch. The copper wire wrapped around the green screw is your ground wire, by the way.* Wire cutters -- perhaps not always needed, in my case they were as some of the lines were too long and I couldn't align them in parallel with the sensor wires (which were too short) properly. If this is the case then you might need a wire cutter after all.The switch itself I would rate 5 stars, and works perfectly for my use case. I had a pair of three-way switches at the top/bottom of the stairway leading down to my basement, and that area was always dark so we always need the lights on. The switch is on the side of my wall and adjacent to the person who is opening the door to the basement, and lights up immediately. The only problem is that it detects motion in a 5-6 feet distance, which can be troublesome if we have the door open and someone is just walking down the hallway. Overall, the switches worked perfectly and I am only subtracting a star due to overly vague directions that seem to rely wholly on the diagram to aid in the wiring process. If better instructions were included with the product and I didn't need to refer to another review on Amazon, I would definitely rate this product five stars as it is working perfectly so far - have had it for about two days, and so far no trouble. Would recommend a try for others looking for motion-detecting light switches in a similar use case as the one I had.

After much trouble installing these 2 three way switches, one of them quit working after about a month. I have checked the wiring and adjusting the controls. The motion detection LED flashes, when there is motion within range, but the light will not activate. The other switch that does work has a steady green LED when motion is detected. I attempted to contact the maker's support, but they do not list this particular switch on their site and there are no options. This thing is a piece of junk. I rolled the dice going with a cheap Chinese made item, now will replace it with a name brand switch made in the USA.

Get a voltmeter and follow the 3b diagram. This diagram does not show it but cap off the sensor BLUE wires as they are NOT needed when pairing two sensors; only needed for one sensor and one switch as depicted in diagram 3a.I used a 3-way switch diagram from google image to help understand how the 3-way circuit works (see attached image).Basically, the two sensors will work independently and do not work in conjunction the way a 3-way switch does. The sensors must use the two "traveler lines" (a red/black pair) to work. However, it is important to understand the "traveler lines" must be connected differently from the typical 3-way switch. When pulling apart the old 3-way switch, one of the terminals will have a black screw; this will be either the LOAD or the LINE/HOT. After the old 3-way switch wires are separated, pull out the NEUTRAL line (typically white) to test the wire that was on the black screw (typically black) with the voltmeter. The one with current is LINE/HOT. The one without current is LOAD.STEP #1, the sensors MUST have a NEUTRAL and a LINE/HOT to sense. What is missing is that on one side there is no current. This is the first "traveler line" that will be used to get a LINE/HOT connection to the non-current side. Use the black "traveler line" from red/black pair to make the following connection: THREE CONNECTIONS on the LINE/HOT side: Sensor BLACK + black LINE/HOT wire (typically part of a white, black, copper bundle) + black "traveler line" (typically part of a red/black bundle) and TWO CONNECTIONS on the NO-CURRENT side: Sensor black + black "traveler line" (remember, live current will be now be on this wire).STEP #2, the sensors MUST be able to switch a light off/on. What is missing is that on one side there is no LOAD to switch. This is the second "traveler line" that will be used to get a LOAD connection to the non-load side. Use the red "traveler line" from red/black pair to make the following connection: THREE CONNECTIONS on the LOAD side: Sensor RED + black LOAD wire (typically part of a white, black, copper bundle) + red "traveler line" (typically part of a red/black bundle) and TWO CONNECTIONS on the NO-LOAD side: Sensor red + red "traveler line" (remember, live current will be now be on this wire when either sensor switches on).STEP #3, the sensors MUST have a NEUTRAL and a LINE/HOT to sense. Each electrical box will have a WHITE NEUTRAL wire bundle. For each sensor, connect the sensor WHITE wire to this WHITE wire bundle.STEP #4, For each sensor, connect the sensor GREEN wire to the bare copper wire.Study diagram 3b and it should begin to make sense. The diagram is definitely not detailed enough but the instructions above should bring clarity to what is going on. Took me an hour to figure it all out and another hour to carefully do the install. And yes, I disconnected the power for all steps except when ready to test for the LOAD and LINE/HOT connections.

Had motion light in middle of basement stairs but always delayed activation. These solved the problem perfectly. Wiring was a pain but finally figured out after an hour. Family happy

I like the price, they do work flawlessly, they are also easy to install and look real good.

I ordered a motion sensing occupant switch about 2-3 years ago for the garage and it worked flawlessly, until it didn't. I went to re-order a replacement and found that seller/product no longer existed (hmmmm). So I bought this item and it turned out to be nearly identical down to the molding markings and wire locations, EXCEPT, during operation, if the lights are on and I turn them off manually, the next time I walk in the garage the lights DO NOT activate with motion! HOW ANNOYING!According to the user manual, it is NOT supposed to operate this way.

Lo use para encender luces en muro de escalera, pensé que me serviría como apagador de escalera pero no fue así, se prende con el sensor pero se apaga automáticamente con la configuración que ofrece.