UPDATE: Changing from 3 star to 5 star. After working with the seller, they suggested that the hot and neutral could be reversed at the AC input to the unit. I didn't think so, but I checked the input and I had correctly wired the black lead to "Load" and the white lead to "Neutral". However, after disconnecting the AC cord I used, and testing it, turns out it was wired with the black wire going to the neutral side of the plug, and the white wire going to the hot side. Reversed the inputs and all was good. Taught me a lesson: always test EVERYTHING when wiring up circuits.Like several others that have reviewed this product, I found that the hot and neutral were reversed at the AC outlet plugs on the unit. This was verified with an AC tester. However, it's more complicated than just reversing the hot and neutral at the AC outputs. That's because when the unit is on AC house power, yes, the outlets show a hot/neutral reverse. But when you kill the AC power to the unit, and run off the battery/inverter, the output at the AC outlets is correct, with the tester showing no issues. So in my opinion, if you reverse the hot and neutral at the outputs your AC tester will show everything good when the unit has AC to it, but when you have to run off the battery, it will now show a hot/neutral reverse. Not sure what to do about it, therefore only 3 stars.

The power inverter stop working with a battery low error/alarm. Contacted support but no answer yet. Hopefully I get a response soon with a resolution. THE 5 STAR IS FOR VISIBILITY ONLY.Update: The seller sent a replacement unit without any extra charges.

I really liked the features and of course the price point of this unit. I knew from other reviews about the hot and neutral being switched on the back outlets. I am an electrical engineer and lifelong tinkerer, so this small fix was cake for me.I then used it for about a year - a couple of trips in the van where we used the inverter function but mostly using the charging function to keep the van's batteries topped off when it is parked (this is most of the time).Then one day the van was filled with acrid smoke, I was not using the inverter, just the keep charged from shore power function. After turning off all power, I tracked it down to the AMPINVT inverter.Disassembling the board, I could see that the connections to the big filter capacitors had burned. Now, remember I am an actual electrical engineer and this kind of circuit is not new to me.The filter capacitors (no-name "Ruelicon" a cheesey, transparent knock-off of the respected "Rubycon") had leaked, and their corrosive electrolyte had done some damage to the circuit board. I could see where the electrolyte had dripped down onto the case. As I looked it over, I could see why. The original design (based on the silk-screen markings) called for 4 pieces of 10,000uF capacitors. At some point, some helpful soul had changed it to two pieces of 22,000uF capacitors - my guess is a cost-saving matter.There are a couple of things wrong with this. First off, the current in each capacitor would now be double, and the equivalent ESR of the capacitor bank would now be half. Also, I tried to find a 22,000uF, 50v capacitor with the through-hole lead style of the original capacitors--there is no reputable manufacturer that makes such a thing (judging by Digi-Key). By the time you get that big of a capacitor at that high of voltage, they need much beefier connections.I contacted the seller and gave them this information. They said they would send me a new circuit board for $230 (out of warranty, of course), and admitted no fault. The problem is that a replacement board will still have only two cheap no-name capacitors installed, so the failure will still be imminent.Instead, I decided to buy four new, high spec capacitors (Kemet, made in EU, 16,000uF, 63v, low ESR, screw terminals -- total cost for 4x capacitors was more than $60). I had to heavily modify the PCB to allow it to accept these new capacitors, but that was relatively easy for _me_.Why not just buy another inverter/charger? First off, I do like many of the design elements of this inverter, the transformer is massive, the wiring is heavy, good heat sinks, etc. Plus The hole in my van is exactly the size of this inverter (sigh), so I really wanted to repair this and keep it. And the other popular inverter-chargers (Renogy and Aims) that I looked at also had their share of horror story reviews.After my modifications, I think the inverter is now solid (knock on wood). However, unless you are a very experienced maker/hacker this kind of repair / modification will not be possible.In conclusion, I can not recommend this inverter-charger with its current design. If they would only fix the outlet polarity problem and use 4 pieces of quality capacitors, it would be a good unit.Update: Even with the higher-quality Kemet capacitors, they once again leaked. Very odd. All I can figure is that there must be huge ripple currents into those capacitors. I'm tossing this one and replacing it with a Victron.

We recently purchased and installed the 2000W/12VDC unit for backup of a few critical pieces of equipment.The inverter is fairly heavy, seems well built (from the outside), and has been up and running now for a few weeks. The documentation is pretty basic, and just gives 'screen shots' of the different menu options.We also have a similar issue to others that have posted about the HOT/LINE being reversed. On our unit, the built in AC receptacles have the HOT/NEUTRAL wired reversed. However, the hardwire output is wired correctly. We are OK with this because we are only using the hardwire output. I don't think it would be a big issue with the other outlets just having the line/neutral reversed, but some electrical equipment might not work properly.We have tested with cutting the power (breaker) off to the unit and it promptly switches over to the battery backup without issue (LINE POWER PRIORITY SETTING). We like that there is the option of setting the DC Source as the priority, which would be helpful if you are using solar and want to run off the solar as priority. Of course you are going to need to provide the panels, the wiring and the charge controller to the setup to do this.We did add in a 'battery monitor' to be able to better 'see' how much power we are using and have remaining off the battery as needed. Would highly recommend this setup to others as the built in components do not seem to be providing accurate numbers (we have a desktop computer, printer a 15w led light and IP phone running off the inverter, and it's stating that we only have a 3% load on the inverter - which cannot be right). We wanted some way to validate the usage on our battery in a 'backup' situation.All-in-all the unit at this price point does what it should, seems to be well built and operates as expected. We're giving it a solid 4 stars, but holding one back for the output wiring issue and battery monitoring inconsistencies.