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2025-08-25 18:38:42
I am replacing existing electromechanical relays with these solid-state devices. This one is for a high current security lighting installation. The E-M relays fail after a time. The wide range of the control voltage makes adapting to the existing control circuit easy.
Thomas J Evans
2025-07-17 15:46:39
This item works well and does not run hot. I have a Schiit equalizer that does not have a switch on/off mono jack. I use the relay in a small project electrical box with a 15A duel 115V outlet, and an on and off switch for the power input. I plug the equalizer power adaptor into the outlet. I have a mono-jack that is wired to the relay, and the other end plugs into a 30V output switch on my power amplifier. My processor is switched to the power amplifier, and then the amplifier to the equalizer. I just turn on my processor and everything else powers up.
Rick & Gary
2025-07-16 16:06:53
I used it for a house fan circuit. I like that it's easy to mount on the wall, clearly labeled, and so far (after a couple of months) seems reliable.
Roark
2025-05-27 11:43:42
These really need AT LEAST 5 volts to drive the input. At 3 volts none of them worked reliably. That being said, with 6 volts of drive, they are reliable. They need a good heatsink and a quality, brand-name thermal compound to prevent destruction under load. Keep them under 70% of the rated current value and you’ll get good life. Go much higher and you’ll probably regret it. YMMV
Santino G.
2025-05-13 17:55:34
I am so glad I tested these before we used them. We intended to use them with a PID controller, but they continued to allow current flow even when the PID output shut off. I manually checked with a multimeter, and even when the LED light would turn off on the relay, current still flowed. This is incredibly dangerous. Please please test before using.
Joe Blount
2025-05-01 13:39:49
At the off grid hunting property I have solar power in the garage and one of the deer blinds. The LiFePO4 batteries have low temp charging protection to prevent charging when below freezing (that will destroy them). Last winter it got cold enough for long enough that even in the garage they didn't accept a charge for several days and ran down. So I'm rigging up heating for them. I have about a 150 watts of heat tape wrapped around the batteries. But I don't want to heat them through the night because that will waste battery power.So... I got a low voltage cutoff & set it to shut off any time the batteries aren't charging. That connects to a relay to switch AC voltage, which powers the heat tape. One minor inconvenience was that this is only rated for up to 32 volts, but my 48 volt batteries charge at nearly 60v. So I checked the impedence of the coil in this relay and wired a resistor inline with this relay so it only gets a few volts.The end result is when the sun comes out and tries to charge, the voltage will increase (even if the batteries aren't accepting charge), so the low voltage cutoff supplies power to the relay, which turns on power to the heat tape, which if its around freezing will come on and warm batteries. It may take an hour or two to warm the batteries enough to accept a charge, but by mid morning my batteries should be charging.
Gretallack
2025-04-22 10:08:30
Functions perfectly. It stays nice and cool running at 1/2 its rated capacity.
Dan B.
2025-02-16 14:57:28
The description is a bit misleading - what's called "Input" should really be called "Trigger" and what's called "Output" really ought to be "Current rating" . These don't transform the input voltage to the output, they merely close a switch that's rated for "Output" current when "Input" voltage is present.As products, these are excellent - well made and well-built.
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